Watts in Nigeria - A midwife's involvement with the Wish For Africa charity

The 4th annual Walk4WISH event 2011- 20/08/2011

2011-08-23T09:35:00.000-07:00

This year Walk4WISH was proudly sponsored by ARIK AIR, CANUK & NORDICA and we thank each of them for their support of our work.

After a few grey days we woke to sunshine and made our way to set up at the usual meeting point, Morrisons Thamesmead. 10 o’clock arrived and we were looking a little thin on the ground…African time O, soon the numbers had expanded to around 50! It was great to see many of our loyal supporters, although many had sent apologies of holidays and prior arrangements. It is also really fantastic to see new faces and there were many, thanks to all of you.

Ready to Walk4WISH

It is always good to hear that people have gone that extra mile to join us and Sesan had certainly done that, he travelled over night by car/ferry from the Hague, Holland to be with us, what a show of dedication! Helen had travelled from Heathrow not knowing where Thamesmead was and not knowing anyone, Ann-Marie & Romeo had been handed a flyer the evening before by Femi and decided to join us to see what we were about. Femi also spoke on Naija FM prior to the walk & received a phone call with an offer of photgraphy. Tomi our youngest regular donator asked her mum to change a holiday to the USA so she wouldn’t miss the yearly event. So many people from a variety of areas, social backgrounds, ages, nationalities all joining together for a fun day in aid of a good cause.

The adults walked the 2.5 km all at their own pace, whilst the children rode there bikes and scooters as well as walked, run, skipped and hid. The walk took its usual route along the Thames Path, 2.5km to the half way point. Here we rested and eat a packed lunch, kindly and generously donated by an anonymous well wisher. Sandwiches, crisps, sweets, drinks and fruit were enjoyed by all. We sat and listen to some talks from different friends of WFA about their personal involvements with WFA. The usual photo opportunities were had and everyone chilled and chatted before embarking on the next 2.5km back to Thamesmead.

The sun kept shining until the return leg when it started to rain and by the time we had reached Morrisons we were a little wet to say the least. Still we were not defeated everyone crossed the finish line still smiling and had a warm welcome from Femi. Then we said our goodbyes, gave lifts to stations to those that needed lifts and went home to rest our aching feet.

A huge thank you once again to all those that attended this years Walk4WISH and just to remind you that you can still sponsor any one of us for our efforts. Jo Watts and Femi Olaleye can be contacted for information on how to send your donation. Every amount however small or large can help in our plight to improve healthcare in the deprived areas of Lagos, so please think about it, whether a one off donation of a monthly/yearly payment. It all helps us provide to care we want to be able to give.

May 1st 2011 - The Wedding day

2011-05-03T11:36:00.000-07:00

The day that this whole trip was based upon was finally here, the wedding of Femi and Aderemi. The night had been restless with noise from outside, I got up and sorted myself breakfast, cornflakes with powered milk, as you just don’t really get fresh milk in Lagos (many people haven’t got fridges or reliable electricity to run them).

The house at this point was fairly quiet, Remi was at the venue and Femi was just going to head out to see if all was OK. They came back and the house then had a steady flow of helpers/visitors.

As Remi had started getting ready (African time O! everything was running late), I thought I’d start getting ready. I had just commenced putting my make-up on when my room was commandeered by photographers laying out all the items Remi was going to wear on my bed to photograph (good job I wasn’t half naked!).

I went to the venue ‘Balmoral’ with Waheed (the driver). On arrival we couldn’t get in as we didn’t have ID and we had to insist that we were meant to be there and had loads of items to off load. They reluctantly let us in! Well only into the grounds, the security on the door wouldn’t let us in as they were tidying up after a church service that morning. So we sat and waited, eventually they let us in and I was told where to sit by Waheed, then a member of Femi’s family came over and directed me to the front row next to the them.

Another hour went by and guests kept arriving and the African tribal band began beating their various drums and shaking the shekeres, the sound was contagious and really made you feel the moving to its beat. Some of the women got up and were dancing around the band (I so wanted to join them). The room was now full of women wearing beautiful traditional attire (Aso-Ebi) with some stunning Geles (head wear), the groom’s side wearing pink and silver and the bride’s side wearing orange and gold. The men also looked amazing in their clothes too.

Shortly after the traditional wedding commenced, the Alago Ijoko (the female ‘master of ceremonies’) takes control and leads and talks through the whole event. This started with Femi’s entrance with the ‘boys’ all dancing he looked marvellous in his clothes (agbaba I believe). He then has to go through an act basically asking the bride’s parents for their permission for their daughter, this is an elaborate show and amusing in many parts. The groom has to lay prostrate bowing to the bride’s family to show how much he respects them and wants their daughter.

The bride, Aderemi, then enters with the ‘girls’ again singing and dancing and looking stunning. She then goes through a similar act with the groom’s parents and is presented to them by the Alago Ijoko and ends with her putting the hat (Kufi) on the groom. Again this all takes time and in the midst of this there are three bowls placed on the floor and guests are encouraged to place money in them at different time. What generally happens is that people come with large amounts of small dominations of money so they can keep putting lots of notes in without the value being so great. People gather outside wedding events with wads of small notes ready to change with guests.

There was a table full of gifts for the bride’s family, and this is a long list of traditional gifts that are expected to be given. These gifts range from bottles of honey, suitcase, many large yams, fruit, salt, bottles of wine to (Derek) the ram (who didn’t make the ceremony). The whole thing is so elaborate and over the top but such fun and so different from

weddings.

Once the ceremony was completed we all made our way to the other side of the hall for the meal and party. Remi had worked so hard on making this look fabulous paying attention to every detail, it looked spectacular. The venue that had looked so huge when we visited it earlier in the week suddenly didn’t feel so big with the 500 or so guests. The food just kept coming dish after dish was offered of every Nigerian dish, and cakes and later more food! Drinks were all served and waiters just walked around giving what ever you required.

The band was great and played between speeches from different guests. Then all the bride and grooms friends had to go outside (all girls apart from Gyles who decided to join in for this too). We danced in down the aisle then lined it, singing & dancing as Femi & Remi danced down it.

The bride and groom then had their first dance and people sprayed them with money (this is their wedding gift money). The music was great and much dancing was done as we danced in that fun African way around them. I enjoyed the dancing as those that know me would expect and as the only white person there drew quite a bit of attention and amusement.

The party started to die down around 7 (it had been going on a fair while) and by 8 I had to leave to catch my plane. As almost everyone had left by this time Femi came to the airport with me and helped me carry my bags, we said our goodbyes. I am so grateful to him and Remi for hosting me for my trip in a week that has been busy and stressful for them. I enjoyed my time with them and as always Femi has been a wonderful friend and host. I feel he is a true friend and am honoured to feel so loved by him and I love him dearly and wish him and Remi every happiness and blessing for their future together.

As I left Lagos looking out of the plane window as always I wonder if I will return. I struggle at times in my trips when I feel restricted with no transport and reliant on Femi and others for my every move. I enjoy the food but also struggle with it, that amount of carbs/starch I find difficult and end up not being able to eat. I miss my family and friends. But saying all this there are many times that I just do the simple things like walking out, visiting markets, just mixing with the people or flying over looking at the mass of houses and just feel that I am meant to be part of this and love it.

In conclusion I hope I return, Lagos has changed even in the three years I have been there. Things are slowly starting to improve in some areas, and hopefully this will continue and our vision at Wish For Africa is that we can help improve the health care system for everyone, it often feels that we are swimming against the tide and for every effort we make we are then knocked back. It would be so easy to think why bother, it’s not worth it. On these occasions I just have to think of any of the individuals we have helped and I know it is worth it. One day WFA will get the breakthrough it needs and deserves, someone will pay attention and we will change things for the better. Until that day I thank everyone for their support and ask you to continue encouraging us, telling others about us and these tiny efforts will eventually impact on the health care system of Nigeria.

April 30th 2011 - Happy Birthday Tony

2011-05-02T09:28:00.000-07:00

Today is my husband’s birthday. Happy birthday Tony, sorry I’m not there to share it with you. I texted Tony first thing in the morning. I spoke to him as soon as I could to ask Femi and use his phone. All seemed well at home Tony liked his presents that had been left for him. It felt like a long day, Remi had got the car and was running around Lagos sorting out everything. Femi was downstairs and I was using a very slow and frustrating internet.

About three Femi and I took a walk to the basket market. They make the wicker items from scratch. There were women stripping the bamboo canes into strips, then a man making even thinner and tidying them up. Then others were weaving all sorts of items, from baskets, cribs, chairs to sofas. There were so many stalls and so much choice all under the fly over, it was quite a sight almost hidden to the traffic on the express way above them. I had my camera out and after taking a photo of the Weavers Association we got called into a room full of men asking why I was taking photos, in a very typical Nigerian man way, Femi reassured them with a small amount of money and they welcomed me. I also enjoyed some corn and coconut from the side of the road. This is something I always enjoy and hadn’t had this trip.

It was nice walking along the roads rather than driving, so many people say welcome and hello. It is such a different way of life, many things would just never happen in the

. Yet here it’s the norm and no one bats an eye or even notices things could be different. Its said to be a dangerous place by some yet children play in the streets at such a young age not something you see in the

, we fear that they will come to harm. So I ask where is it more dangerous or have we [

] become so health and safety obsessed that we see danger in everything?

We then went to the photocopying shop, or rather shack the size of a small shed with leads and plugs all over and the oldest computers ever which you can use as an internet café. I sat on a bench while the photocopier spewed out its copies and a large fan kept the air circulating.

We returned home and met with Folekemi and Femi’s other sisters it was great to see her and as always she made me laugh and fussed other me. They stayed and ate and waited for Remi to return before leaving. A lady came round to put decorations on all the items for tomorrow everything is silver and pink and so much detail and tradition goes into this.

A little later when Remi had gone back out, Femi and I walked to the photocopy shop again to collect the items and while I waited for the suya man to cook my tasty what ever part of the cow it is, Femi had his hair cut and I sat watching Lagos go by in the dark of the evening. When you’re in the poorer communities so many more people acknowledge and welcome you, I guess its because they don’t see white people every day in these areas.

April 29th 2011 - Let's go buy a ram

2011-05-02T09:20:00.000-07:00

Today Remi was out early, I laid in and eventually got up and had breakfast with Femi. We then sat down to watch the DVD of the registry and church part of there wedding. They both looked stunning and very happy. Nigerian weddings do go on much longer than ours and they are full of singing, dancing, praising the Lord as well as plenty of advice from everyone on how to have a good marriage. At this point Femi reminded me it was the royal wedding today, which I have managed to avoid completely not being in the country.

Remi returned and we then went out to do some last minute things. I was measured for my wedding attire, the material is pink and silver sequins, I was told I’m going to have a gele the traditional headdress worn by the women but alas I don’t feel I can carry it off as they do.

We then went to a market in Surulere where Remi’s sister has a shop and we picked up some things for the wedding from there. As we walked along the market streets there were chickens being slaughtered, women cutting up tripe in bowl of water, very different to our markets. No shopping trolleys here but boys with wheel barrows eager to help you transport your wares for a small fee.

Then what was probably the highlight of the trip, we went to buy a ram. This was no visit to Sainsbury, this was a massive animal market with herds of goats, rams, chickens, guinea fowl. It is traditional for the bride and groom to buy the brides family a ram and this is what we did. There was a part of me that thought I should be disgusted by this place, compared with the conditions we have to keep animals in this was far below and health and safety rules in the

but then again so is everything here. To the contrary I was enthralled by the place, it was so busy and life as it is here. People don’t go and buy shrink wrapped joints from the supermarket, they breed them, slaughter them and eat every bit of them, no wasting here.

We then had to transport this rather large ram ( I fondly called him Derek) to Remi’s parent’s house. So in the car it was put. Several helpful bystanders (all hoping for a reward) grabbed hold of this ram tied its feet and placed him in the boot of Femi’s car, thankfully it didn’t mess with nerves. We drove the ten minutes to Remi’s parents with this ram looking at me and barring which all felt rather amusing.

We then returned home and spent some time in my room, this is when I miss just picking up a phone and speaking to friends and family. Having to ask for someone phone and then worrying about their credit is not so easy or convenient. Later in the evening I was able to use the internet and at least chat on line with a few friends. Remi was up sorting things out till very late, she has worked so hard to make this wedding go just as she wants it.

April 28th 2011

2011-05-02T05:28:00.001-07:00

Today Remi had lots of preparation and meetings to do, so I went along for the ride. After visiting the bank and dropping off Femi we headed for the wedding venue. We arrived to a reasonably modest looking place with a huge water feature outside, as we walked through the doors my jaws dropped it was huge, the size of a football pitch. From the inside it looked like a Marquee with reams of rouched material from ceiling to floor and massive diamond dropping chandeliers. Remi discussed the final details with various people wanting every detail to be perfect. As she does this sort of thing for a living its hard to hand her own wedding over to someone else. I sat sweating in the heat of the Marquee for what felt like hours but was only an hour or so. Femi popped in for a short time and he had Mr Dee with him. It was great to see him and after a huge hug and a few words they went.

We then made our way to the government offices for Remi to see her uncle. These were loads of buildings each one servicing a different facility. Cars were parked all over the place the usual Lagos chaos and rules (that there are no rules). We also bumped into one of Remi’s sisters and stopped to talk.

The rest of the day was spent weaving in and out the Lagos traffic. Finally we popped into Sweet Sensations for a meat pie for a late lunch. I have noticed that dotted around the area are these mesh like pieces of art, things like butterflies, brightly coloured and in random places. This I guess is part of Lagos’ attempt to beautify itself.

Femi also sorted out the internet, in a fashion, unfortunately my netbook hasn’t a disc drive so I couldn’t load it onto it. So I still remain without internet in my room or a local sim card so contacting family and friends, has not been easy or when I’ve wanted it. Which is frustrating but thankfully I’m only here for a week so I’m sure I will cope. The use I had allowed me to check out facebook and my emails which was useful.

April 27th 2011

2011-05-02T05:27:00.000-07:00

A good nights sleep last night. The first heavy rain of my trip was crashing down about 7.30 the noise made worse due to the tin roofs but typically it only lasted for 15 minutes or so. After my wash Femi sorted toast for breakfast and we went to meet my friend on the moped the money man.

We headed to Olowoora to see Gyles at the medical centre. Gyles is a medical student who contacted us at Wish for Africa wanting to spend time with us for his elective. It was the Ante natal clinic so a great opportunity to share the baby clothes that had kindly been donated to me and they were very well received along with some toys for the older ones. On my arrival all the women greeted me with a song and some dancing and of course I joined in. Gyles looked well and we handed him some money from WFA funds towards his costs as he was finding it difficult to sustain himself and was thinking of going to stay with someone, which we didn’t feel safe about due to not knowing them.

We then headed to Femi’s cousin who very sadly lost his wife last week. She had given birth to a beautiful baby boy and with a previous history of pre-eclampsia, this time it went to eclampsia a day or so after the birth. It sounds like the blood pressure may not have been well controlled and the hospital had decided not to do an autopsy, typically here the situation was probably covered up, no audit, no lessons learnt, no change of practise, no reviewed policies. Just a family with young children and a baby all with no mother, and this wasn’t even a poor family they could afford a good hospital, but so often it seems that the practises here are not as up-to-date, not evidence based and many people suffer not even realising it should and could be better.

The family although grieving were very welcoming, I was offered akara and made friends with the youngest daughter, who was only about 2 she shared her biscuits with me or should I say the crumbs which she amused herself by crumbling the biscuit on me, with fits of laughter. The grandmother decided I should be given a Nigerian name and suggested Adejoke (which apparently means some thing like gather around or together). It humbled me to think that these strangers in the midst of their grief can still be so warm and welcoming.

We visited a IVF clinic in Ikoyi run by Dr Bolaji who trained in both

Nigeria

and

Norway

. He then decided to set up business here to provide a service to the increasing population of couples that are unable to conceive naturally. We were given an impromptu guided tour of the unit by his wife and found it to be well run, clean and professional. There were several people being or waiting to be seen and they had a photo gallery of all the successful births. I also commented on and was impressed by a counselling service that they supply which is not a common thing in

Nigeria

. Stress, depression, mental health is not readily accepted here often thought of as a weakness or a blame thing, it was good to see that this clinic was taking the stress that often comes with the issues around IVF seriously and acknowledging and dealing with them.

As we drove I was trying to work out if things had really begun to improve here or was it that I was now used to the sights and they no longer surprise me. This in part is true I believe that familiarity does breed contempt but saying that the road sides generally were clean, the main road we travelled along had no major holes, it had a new layer of tarmac. The yellow buses had gone giving way to red and blue ones which had taken there place in a new government scheme allowing private enterprise to run the routes. They certainly looked an improvement on the previous buses.

Nigeria

has such a huge way to go in so many areas but things are beginning to change and that has to be a positive encouragement for its future.

April 26th 2011

2011-05-02T05:25:00.000-07:00

As usual on my first night anywhere different I didn’t have the best sleep ever, the noise of the air con and what sounded like a generator humming outside kept disturbing me. Remi woke me around eight to ask if I wanted breakfast, I showered which is an all together different experience from home, not the high powered shower I am used to, but a bit more than a trickle, but with the aide of a bucket and bowl which every Nigerian must be familiar with all was OK.

Remi I feel is going to attempt to feed me to death, she made a huge breakfast of scrambled eggs, with mixed veg and chillies, sausages and toast a delicious start to the morning.

Today is Election Day (one of many as they don’t do them all on one day here). This means it’s quieter out, similar to a bank holiday. I walked with Femi and Remi to the polling station a few streets away. I was welcomed by the locals and offered food and shade, which I declined as I was full from my breakfast banquet. We got there only for Femi to find out his name wasn’t on their list to vote, even though he had a card saying to do so. They told him to return later in the day, it appeared he wasn’t the only one to not be included on the list.

Remi and I left Femi walked to see and discuss her wedding cake at the house of the Doctor who’s restaurant in Ikeja I visited on my last trip where at last I had a great cup of coffee, a must visit for any one coming here. The doctor seemed a charming man who made us welcome and then walked with us some of the way back before catching his lift to another appointment.

We then visited some neighbours who had three lovely children the youngest about 16 months was very bemused by me and clung to Remi not being familiar with oyibo (white person). Eventually he smiled and clapped at me at least from a distance.

We went home and Remi prepared another lovely meal of fried rice, plantain and meat whilst I watch Nigerian TV from African Magic to music and a few American things in between.

We all rested in the afternoon heat and I read and blogged as well as grabbed forty winks before heading to the airport. Femi’s sister Folake was arriving from the

, we were originally going to fly together but we couldn’t make the same day. We met up with other family members including Femi’s mum who I hadn’t met before but have heard a lot about from Femi. She is a lovely lady, reminding me of Folake in her ways laughter and talking. Also Folake’s older son who still lives in Lagos, when she arrived and saw him the tears of joy were unstoppable. It was a touching moment to see a mothers love for her son that she hadn’t seen in quite some time. We had been there for two hours waiting for her to come through with her baggage. In Lagos airport nobody is allowed inside to greet people, we even had to slip something into the guards hand to allow us to wait outside the doors, it’s a busy place. We all had our hugs and walked her to the car park past all the money touts and people trying to grab your business or attention.

On our return Remi wanted to cook again but we agreed on a lighter snack, Femi decided to do cup cakes Femi style, this ended up being a huge bowl of custard with a cup cake in it, which we all sat and enjoyed. Followed by a chase around the bath of the odd insect, before stupidly losing my ring down the sink plug hole! Then blog and bed and hopefully a better nights sleep.

April 25th 2011- Returning to Lagos

2011-05-02T05:23:00.000-07:00

I have returned toLagos for the third time in as many years, but this time my charity work here isn’t my reason for coming. I have been invited to attend the wedding of Dr Femi Olaleye to the beautiful Aderemi.

I had a good flight from London, the plane was not full and I got three seats to myself which was great almost feeling first class, I put my feet up and relaxed, read my book and watched the Black Swan. The food however didn’t quite feel so first class with one of my least favourite combinations for sweet, rhubarb and ginger.

As I looked out at the now familiar terrain of Lagos, which suddenly appears after the green landscape before it, a mass of brown, blue and red roofs and the yellow buses and taxis on the busy roads, we landed smoothly. I departed the plane feeling less anxious than on previous journeys, knowing what to expect. The escalator down, which can be manic at the bottom if queues are backing up and end in people falling onto each other, was even ok this time, although I was cautious to check before embarking onto it.

I went though the control with relative ease, even remembering to write an address down on my blue form. I walked to get my trolley gave my hundred naira and waited for my bags, and waited and waited. Eventually as most passengers had picked up their luggage and left the airport I was just starting to feel anxious when “Hallelujah” I said aloud as my bag came through onto the conveyer belt. I had received a text and knew Femi was waiting (patiently) outside, so I headed out saying no thank you to the many offers of help from the many people trying to make their money from the airport traffic. I looked around the area which as always is manically busy and loud and caught Femi waving in the distance, welcome to Lagos.

We took the short drive to Femi and Remi’s home which is situated in a well secured area of town. I was welcomed by Remi to their house and shown to my room, all a far cry from Femi’s previous lodgings in Mafoluku. Remi prepared a lovely meal with pounded yam and then I retired to my room where I unpacked and went to bed.

The WISH FOR AFRICA's New Year & Valentine's Dinner Party 2011

2011-02-20T09:41:00.000-08:00

After weeks of preparation, Facebook advertising, texting, BBMing and emailing the 19th February had finally arrived and one of our now annual Wish For Africa events was ready to go.

Femi and I, along with Tony and Michelle arrived at 805 early to set up and receive our guests. As a trickle of people started to arrived, I began to get nervous knowing that if numbers were short then our costs would be high to us. I was told to relax and have faith, I reassured myself ‘African time o’ and of course most of the people that had requested a place arrived, by the end of the evening over 40 people had joined us.

People’s kindness and thoughtfulness never ceases to amaze me. Shortly after arriving a friend of WFA Mr Ernest Oladipo Okoh just dropped in to say sorry he couldn’t make it but left us a sizable donation.

We officially commenced the party with an opening prayer and the delicious buffet was served. We sat down to an abundance of Nigerian cuisine including rice, pounded yam, plantain, moi-moi, fish, chicken, tripe, Egusi and gizzards. Everyone appeared to enjoy the feast and there was plenty for seconds!

The evening of course was in aid of our fantastic charity Wish For Africa and part of the event is to report to everyone the things we are doing. At this point some of our guests are invited to speak about their involvement. Ayo Akinfe author of "Fuelling the Delta Fires" gave us a reading from his book and shared why he believed that healthcare in Nigeria needs to be improved.

We were introduced to all our speakers by our hostess, the lovely Lola Atkins. We also heard eloquently from Muyiwa, Mo Abatan , Gyles Morrison, Titilayomi Shonubi, Jacqueline Wabara, Bianca Cotton AKA Miss Nubian, Joyce Sam-Amaga, all speaking about their involvement and support for WFA.

I then gave a synopsis of the WFA’s events over the past year and an outline of the amazing things Femi has been doing in Nigeria. I also spoke on why I feel WFA is such a worthy charity to support. How I have seen with my own eyes the great works being done and the impact that WFA is having on the lives of many that live in such deprived surroundings. I know that money donated to WFA is being ploughed into helping many in Lagos and this is a charity of good standing and morals with forgotten people at its heart.

Finally Dr Femi Olaleye took to the floor. He had said that he would keep it short and only take five minutes!! But I never believed that for a second.
As usual Femi was factual, inspiring, and motivating! He put over his dream of improving healthcare in Nigeria, something that WFA believes should be a right for all not just for the wealthy.

This amazing man [Femi Olaleye] not only talks the talk but he walks the walk too. He left a comfortable lifestyle in the UK with a vision to make an impact and a change to those that can’t help themselves back in his home country. He has put more time, effort and money into this vision than many would ever realise or appreciate. He has humbled himself and relied on God for everything, often to the point of despair. God has always been good and has always provided when all has seemed lost, and WFA will never be beaten or trodden down by the politics and chaos that Nigeria often throws at itself. We will battle on God led for the deprived and needy in areas of Lagos that many choose to ignore or don’t even realise exist, even though they are many.

The evening concluded with the usual photo shots with everyone looking fabulous, ladies in their high, high, high heels and dresses and the gents looking handsome in their suits.

A successful and fun evening with some loyal friends and many new faces all equally welcome and much appreciated. I would like to thank Mrs James and all at 805 for their great service. I would like to say many blessings to those that donated above the price of the meal to WFA, without your support we would struggle to make the difference we do. Finally I would like to thank everyone for attending and supporting the event whether in person on the night or by sharing WFA with their friends through media such as facebook. Please shout about our good work and pass our vision on, you just don’t know the next person that you share our name and work with may just be the person we need!

Saturday 9th October 2010 - Miss Nubian 2010

2010-10-11T04:05:00.001-07:00

Miss Nubian 2010 Beauty Pageant in support of Wish For Africa.

Let me begin and take you back to Wednesday (6th Oct) around 08.30 as I was arriving at work, as I went to put my phone on silent I noticed a message from Femi. It went along the line of ‘ just received message from Jacqueline asking if I was boarding a plane to judge Miss Nubian beauty pageant, as I’m not hope your free Saturday night’. To tell you the truth I was in shock I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry! Me? Judging a beauty pageant, not my usual Saturday night, or any night come to that. It certainly gave everyone at work a laugh, seeing my panic….put me on a plane to Nigeria and that’s fine but expect me to have anything to do with a beauty pageant and I’m out of my comfort zone.

Blackberry messenger was busy that day with Femi reassuring me that I would be fine and to relax and enjoy it. That evening I rushed to Bluewater to find an outfit, fit for the occasion and thankfully found it. Just preparation for a speech and updating of our display board to be completed and I’d be ready, well as ready as I could be for something to which I had no idea what to expect.

Saturday here and yes it was really happening, I was expected to attend and judge a beauty pageant it hadn’t been a dream and no one ‘more suitable’ had been asked to do the job. I guess I need more of that Nigerian spirit of I can do anything and stop being so British in thinking I can’t.

I arrived at the luxurious Thistle hotel just off Oxford St with Folakemi both in evening wear and heels lugging our huge bag with the display board to show information about Wish For Africa. As we entered the foyer without asking we were pointed into the direction we required. We took the long escalator to the second floor to the Hyde Park suite. We set up our stand and chatted with those that came to enquire, including the handsome Mr Charles Emeka who was one of tonight’s hosts, I just have to add that he recognised me as his Facebook friend and shamefully I had to ask who he was (sorry Charles!). Eventually we went into the event suite, by which time Lola Atkins another trustee for WFA had arrived to support us.

The show was meant to start at 7.00 but unfortunately unforeseen circumstances caused problems and the show didn’t commence until 8.30, African time O! The audience was beginning to get agitated but our host Mr Emeka soon managed to draw them back with the help of his beautiful co-host Glorianne Francis.

Jacqueline Wabara the CEO of Miss Nubian foundation introduced me as representing Wish For Africa, I was asked to speak about our charities work. I always get nervous with public speaking and again not at all confident but I thanked Jacquie for supporting WFA and gave apologies for Dr Femi Olaleye’s absence and mentioned the amazing things that our charity is doing for improving healthcare in the deprived area’s of Lagos and how we hope to expand to all areas of need in Africa in the future.
We were entertained though out the evening by a talented array of acts including Stomp and Shout a children’s dance group, Tony Fernandez a poet and performances by singers Lander Khandel and BabyBoy.

The judges were all introduced and we made our way to our seats. The other judges included Mark Walters, former Aston Villa, Liverpool and England football player. Des O Conner, speaker and black date coach/agency CEO. Sporah Njau, presenter of Sporah TV show. Ngozi Nwaim, CEO of Posh Lady International.

The 13 contestants made their way onto the stage representing many countries including Nigeria, Sierra Leone, South Africa, Barbados, Jamaica, Angola and Ghana. They all looked stunning and bursting with confidence. It was difficult to judge between them they were all beautiful yet varied. We judged on several categories including traditional, swimwear, talent and evening wear. They walked the cat walk in their various outfits that they had chosen and in the most amazing heels.

The talent was wide-ranging from singers, dancers, photography to poetry and a make-over including a haircut (or at least a wig cut!). I have to add that some were more ‘talented’ than others but they all tried and kudos for that. There was a few technical problems with music for the girls which I’m sure gave them added stress but they remained fairly composed and carried on.

Once all the categories had been completed the judges added up our individual scores and chose our top six which were then put together to decide the overall winner. A close contest but the prize went to Miss Sierra Leon, Bianca, who was then crowned Miss Nubian 2010.

I started the evening feeling nervous and unsure of what was to happen, but as usual the familiar quaintness that I love about Lagos came through. Although things didn’t go exactly to plan, times went to pot, entertainers didn’t arrive, judges weren’t fed, everyone kept smiling and the atmosphere remained positive. Well done Jacquie for all the effort and hard work that you and your team put into the event. I must say it was an experience and I enjoyed it. And thankfully NEPA never went down!

Walk4WISH 2010

2010-08-28T14:49:00.000-07:00

Today for the third year running that supporters of Wish For Africa united together to champion, celebrate and shout out loud their loyalty to the cause.
I picked up Femi and we drove to Thamesmead to prepare for the walk. We had already been blessed the sun was shining after a week of rain. Folakemi and Lola were already there so we began to set out the publicity banners and prepared the T-shirts ready for the arrival of the walkers.

Soon everyone started to arrive and adorn their Wish For Africa, a sight that Morrison shoppers could hardly ignore. The photo shoot began to capture to excitement and mood of the day.

At round 10.15 the first cluster of walkers set off for the 5 mile walk along the Thames Path. Letting them go ahead the second group set off by 10.30 at a steady pace. We were a mass of red, white and blue strolling along by the Thames with sounds of talking and laughter.

I was in the second group which also included Dayo Olumo, Obonjo Comedian, among many others. The children on bikes and scooters were surging ahead excited and happy. As soon as we got to the Thames Path Danni Cooper set off to run the course, we sent her off with a cheer.

As we got to about the half way mark Danni came running back past us. When we approached the Woolwich skateboard park once again we could see the dominant red of the walkers awaiting our arrival.

Everyone was in a buoyant mood and it was so nice to gather and meet with many of your Facebook friends. Crisps, chocolates, Chin chin (a Nigerian sweet biscuit that I had not had before), drinks were handed out to all that had walked at the refreshment stop.

Femi then took centre stage and reminded everyone the importance of the day. He talked about the struggles and issues of health care in Nigeria and how backing Wish For Africa can help make a world of difference to those that can’t even afford to eat let-a-loan purchase health care. How Wish For Africa wants to make health care local to those that need it, so the poor don’t need to travel miles to see a doctor. After Femi’s inspirational talk Mr Dayo Olumo also motivated us to believe that as individuals, all different, all unique, yet each in our own way can make a difference.

On a lighter note Mr Obonjo Comdian of the Lafta republic made us all smile with his unique style of humour. Jacqueline Wabara then spoke about her support through fashion shows. I then spoke about the good work that I had seen for myself that Femi and his staff do back in Nigeria with the support of Wish For Africa and how I have been so impressed that I have now self funded 2 trips to Lagos and also become a trustee of the charity. A few more words of praise and encouragement were shared and then we all headed back.
The whole group left together on the return leg of the walk, although we naturally went at different paces with some ahead while others strolled behind. A number of people along the way asked us what we were doing and we were able to share about the charity. Several of us in the front half were so engrossed in chat that we completely missed the turning back to Morrison’s. Soon we received a phone call from the others informing us of our mistake. It felt like we had walked an extra mile as we turned around to retrace our steps.

At the slope we should have gone up everyone was waiting for us which made a nice ending to the walk and meant we all arrived at the car park together, united.

The amazing thing about this walk is that friends, from many African countries, from all over the UK from Nottingham, Hertfordshire, Surrey, London, Kent, both black and white, Christian and Muslim all together with no prejudices, all happily enjoying each others company in support of the same thing. Everyone in agreement that things several hundred miles away need improving and in the belief that together we can help make a difference. By supporting Wish For Africa we can help make changes happen.

Saturday 5th June 2010

2010-06-06T13:37:00.001-07:00

My last sleep in Lagos was a good one. NEPA appeared to be kind to me and to my knowledge remained on all night. NEPA’s favour lasted until about 1.30, so I was blessed with air con and light all morning. This gave me the luxury of dry hair, light to pack by and even the internet was working well and fast. I could almost have forgotten its inconvenience over the past two weeks (but only almost).

Angela gave me the beautiful outfits she had made for me and I tried them on. Not being an expert at tying a Gele (head tie) Angela came to my rescue and showed me how it should be done. They look so stunning when you know what you’re doing and just from a simple piece of material. I unfortunately can’t carry it off as well as the Nigerians they always look stunning in them.

Femi came mid afternoon and I was able to complete my packing with the missing suitcase recovered. I said my goodbyes and thank yous to Angela, Damola and family for their kindness in hosting me, making me feel part of their family and for their generosity of gifts.

We headed to Surulere to meet with Aderemi in her showroom, where she displays her talents for design for prospective clients to view. We then headed though the Lagos streets back to Mafoluku to pick up the clothes that the staff had made for me, taking in the sights and sounds for the last time.

We then headed to Ikeja to a restaurant called the Orchid Bistro that is run by a Doctor that opened this little oasis in Lagos. Nigerian food is hardly featured on the menu, the food was great and the coffee (for one of the world fussiest coffee drinkers) was perfect, hot, strong, not bitter. The décor which Aderemi had designed was clean and modern, I could have been in the UK, it was simple yet effective and classy. Not the cheapest place to eat but somewhere I would certainly recommend and like to return to.

While there we happened to meet Senator Tokunbo Afikuyomi, the commissioner for tourism, who appeared to be a very pleasant gentleman. He was enjoying the atmosphere with his sons. I chatted briefly and said what an enjoyable time I had had in Lagos.

Then Chief Dele Momodu came in and I was introduced to him. This gentleman is the publisher of the Ovation Magazine and was the kind donator of 1 million Naira (£4500) to Wish for Africa at the Ovation Red Carol event in 2009. It is also said that he has aspirations to be a future President, never one to be too in awe of people, I just said nice to meet him and commented on how nice his aftershave was (I’m sure Femi despairs of me sometimes).

The meal over we made our way to the airport, where Femi drove to the departures drop off, said a quick farewell and left. Lagos airport is not as organized or as updated as UK airports and unless you know what you’re doing, it’s not obvious. Anxiously, I made my way to the check in area and gave the helpless blonde white woman look, until someone pointed me in the direction of where to go. I had to then manage my two heavy suitcases, pull along cabin bag, laptop bag and handbag single handedly as the trolley had to be abandoned. The suitcases had to be placed on weighing scales then I had to drag them over to the next person who writes your name in a book, then to someone who opens and looks through each bag, then finally to the check in.

Once this was over I joined the long queue through to departures. With no air conditioning and no computer system it is a long and sweaty process. The queue crept forward slowly and I found myself standing next to a Nigerian woman with a little boy Casey, who were on their way to Germany. He chatted to everyone and he at least gave everyone around him some amusement as we waited for our turn. Eventually it was my turn to go before the two different people that check your papers, then for my stuff to be scanned and me to be frisked, which everyone is, but I wonder if the detector thing you walk through even works?

Finally through, I made my way to my gate, where I sat down with the crowds waiting to board. We were then called in and made our way to our seats and waited for take off. The plane left on time and as we rose over Lagos, I looked at the areas of light and darkness thinking I will miss the uncertainty of NEPA in a funny sort of way. I wondered if or when I will ever return.

Lagos like us humans is full of faults and inadequacies but has something about it that is appealing, exciting and addictive. There is so much room for improvement, so many areas it falls short in but it also appears to be genuinely making progress. So much of Lagos is hard to understand and difficult to comprehend, yet it is vibrant and welcoming. Its people can be selfish, greedy, corrupt, yet they can be warm, generous and inspiring. Lagos has a long way to go and much to do before it can become appealing to holiday makers but it has the potential, it has the beaches, the sun and the atmosphere, but it has to work on its roads, electricity, beaches, safety etc. Lagos can and will be great, health care will improve, it will be a mega city, but people will have to have long term vision and not just a desire to fill their own pockets, once the people in charge take control for the right reasons Lagos and Nigeria will be great.

Friday 4th June 2010

2010-06-04T14:28:00.000-07:00

Heavy storms throughout the night again meant another hot and sweaty night without NEPA. This lack of power continued all morning and after my shower my hair was still damp two hours later. I really fancied my rolls toasted for breakfast but no power, no toaster, no toasted rolls.

The rain outside was persistent and heavy, yet it was still hot. The driver came for me around noon and I made a quick dash for the car, still managing to get wet in the torrential downpour.

We drove along and as well as the roads of rivers, where understandably the drains were finding it hard to cope, there were thousands of umbrellas of all shapes and sizes. Okadas (motorbike taxis) were carrying passengers with umbrellas up. Those that didn’t have umbrellas used a multitude of things to prevent themselves from getting wet, bags, sheets of plastic, upturned bowls and buckets. I have also noticed that many of the Okada drivers that wear coats seem to wear them the wrong way round, some still done up and some open. I can’t quite see the benefit from this but today in the rain there was even more doing it (I guess to reduce the rain getting to their fronts). As buses and cars drove along huge tides of water were sprayed and shot out indiscriminately, hitting whoever got in their way.

Once at Mafoluku I was welcomed by Mr Dee and his handsome little boy. They looked stunning in their matching tie and dye suits. Unfortunately I was not wearing my clothes that had been made as they were a little too big and although I had the skirt altered I hadn’t brought the top with me, Femi was disappointed.

I had to pick up my suitcases from the clinic today so that I could pack ready for my return home tomorrow. I had come to Mafoluku with these bags full of donations and gifts and very sadly someone had decided to take my bag for themselves. It is not the value of the item but the fact that I had come with gifts for the staff and someone decided that it was their right to just take what was not theirs.

Soon we had a group meeting and prayers of thanks we said for the success of the stay. Then each member of staff said their own words of thanks for my visit, which was very touching. Finally Femi spoke and after discussing all that had been achieved with the Children’s party and the delivery etc, he pointed out how disappointing it is that someone had taken the bag without permission. He also said that he hoped that it had been a mistake and that the person hadn’t realised that it wasn’t a donation as well, and that they would return it before I left. With the formal talking over we had crisps, crackers and drinks and photos were taken. Soon after we had gone into the office one of the girls came up to speak to Femi, and said a member of staff had said she had taken the bag and would return in to me.

In the afternoon the Mother, Father and baby that was delivered here on the 1st June came back to see us. Due to the kindness of two donors from the UK, we were able to bless them and their baby. They were handed enough to pay their medical expenses and more to give them a start with their new baby. They were so happy with the donations, it has made a huge difference to them not to have to think about their bill, even though it was much smaller than they would have been charged at other hospitals. We had our photos taken and the father requested that they have a copy so they can show the baby as it grows up, to remind her how blessed she was the day she was born and how the Oyibo was there too from the UK.

Femi and I then made our way to visit Abimbola and her husband Yemi who had very kindly asked us to dinner at their house. We were warmly received and had a lovely dinner of Jollof, chicken, beans and plantain served with red wine and juice, a huge feast.

We talked business and discussed the future of Wish for Africa and Femi spoke of his dreams of healthcare in Nigeria and our role in that. Abimbola and Yemi were very receptive and encouraging, and hopefully will be a part of the future growth of this healthcare vision. We praised God for all he has done and that He will use us like a snowball, that we will grow and affect many needy people in the areas that have been neglected for far too long.

We left there and made our way home not quite managing to miss every pot hole in the darkness of night. The use of car headlights is another thing obviously not discussed at the driving test. Many cars at night spend all the time on full beam so completely blinding on coming traffic, maybe a ploy so they keep out of your way, giving you rule of the road. Other car drivers even have their fog lights on even though fog is not really an issue here, well certainly not in the times I’ve been here. Femi received a call from the staff nurse on duty who informed us that the bag had been returned by the person that took it.

I arrived home and thankfully it was ‘up NEPA’ which meant I could sit peacefully without the generator screaming and in the coolness of my air conditioned room. Where I could begin to pack and get ready for tomorrow’s departure.

Thursday 3rd June 2010

2010-06-03T15:44:00.000-07:00

In the middle of the night I woke up and as I opened my eyes I couldn’t see, oh no I thought I’m blind, then I remembered I was in Lagos and NEPA was down. I scrambled to the end of the bed to find the table and my phone as I pressed it there was light! Not blind at all just dark.

Today was going to be a girl’s day out with Angela and she had gone to work till lunch time so I had a lazy start to my day. I laid in my bed checking out the internet and chatting with Tony, then Michelle back home on skype.

Angela came for me at midday and we headed for Victoria Island over the Third Mainland Bridge, past the fat fish and houses on stilts and eventually to the huge impressive buildings, the other side of Lagos. We were headed for the UBA bank that Damola works in to swap drivers so that Angela’s driver could go and pick the children up from school.

This meant the usual thing of sitting in Lagos traffic, which although would drive me mad back home, I do get pleasure in watching Lagos go by. The Okada drivers and their passengers, although most of them on Victoria Island only had one passenger, many carry two or more and the things you see people carrying whilst on them can be amazing. Huge panes of glass, long lengths of pipes or wood, heavy bags on their heads and often babies strapped to the backs of mothers. Although it is law to have a helmet, like most laws here it is not followed too well. Often if the Okada rider has a helmet it is in his hand or often it is a hard hat from a building site.

As we headed from inner town to the edge heading for Shoprite, we passed along a road that is currently under construction. I had passed this way last year and it was good to see the progress that was being made. A toll had been built which I’m sure I saw the foundations for last year and couldn’t see what it was, although it had not yet started to take money.

This part of town has some of the most expensive hotels about and they look very grand and obviously cost a fortune to stay in. I would imagine most of the visitors to these are business men/women and there must be many as there are loads of hotels and they must make money to survive. There are also more under construction so the need must be about. The oil industry here is very big and a lot of business comes from that I guess.

This is when you see the extremes of wealth side by side grand beautiful buildings and outside the cooking pots and sellers in their shacks. The stop and shop sellers making the money in the chaos of the traffic.

We finally arrived at Shoprite which is a large Asda type shop near Lekki that also has smaller outlet shops and another big warehouse type shop called Game within the complex. In these you can pretty much buy anything and there were lots of familiar brands and food I haven’t seen since I was in the UK. This was the first time in this visit that I didn’t feel as though I stood out so much, as there were several non-Africans doing their shopping there.

I excitedly got crusty bread rolls, camembert cheese, salt and vinegar crisps and of course chocolate! If I ever lived here in Lagos as long as I was near Shoprite I could survive. We walked around and looked at the shops but shortly had to head back to the car. By the time I got back in the car the chocolate was started, very nice too.

We then made our way to the Silverbird cinema. I have been there before on my last visit but not to go to the cinema. We had a look around and then grabbed some lunch at a Nando’s type restaurant, once we had finished there we had time to spare before the film, so we walked around the shops and I got a couple of small gifts to take home.

We then went and purchased popcorn and then Angela insisted on us having ice cream too which was a really nice treat and thoroughly enjoyable. The Silverbird complex was really nice, well decorated certainly by Nigerian standards and the toilets were spotless, the cleanest I have been in, in Nigeria. There was even nice toilet paper (this matters to a girl), even the public toilets in the Hilton Abuja were disappointing. The film we saw was Robin Hood and very good that was too. The only thing was it was running to African time and we were meant to go in at 5.30 and we were told to wait as the previous showing had yet to finish it was 5.50 before it started. Well, when I say started, we sat and watched the end credits before the start of our showing (only in Nigeria).

When it had finished we made our way to the driver outside and he took us home. The traffic was not too bad and we passed over third mainland quite quickly the stilted houses almost invisible in the darkness of night. The busy night time trade was under way and the streets as always were busy with people going about their business. When we got home the children greeted us with excitement, and I gave them the popcorn I hadn’t eaten and retreated to my room (to eat chocolate!).

Wednesday 2nd June 2010

2010-06-02T15:30:00.000-07:00

I woke up after a fairly good night with the remains of stomach cramps, I had these all day yesterday and ate very little as a consequence, but they hadn’t gone. The power was off so I lay dozing for a while but soon thought I had best be ready as Mr Dee and the driver were meeting me here and one may be early.

I was going on a radio programme, Talk Nigeria with Ify Onyegbule, and had to be there for the start at 11 to speak at 11.30. Mr Dee turned up on time but we had not heard from the driver. Eventually we got hold of him and he was only at the Third Mainland Bridge, it didn’t look like we would be on time. The driver rang and said he was round the corner, so we went outside to wait he got to us by 11.05.

Typically whenever you’re late the traffic is bad, and I could feel myself becoming anxious, but what was the point, I either made it or I didn’t, it wasn’t life threatening, so I just relaxed. We arrived at the studio gates at 11.30, the man at the first set of gates must have recognised me from before as he was about to check us and then smiled at me and opened them. We stopped at the second set where you have to sign in and get ID, no one was there. We blow the horn (of course) and again, then the gate man came running round from behind the hut, obviously just been for a wee, still doing himself up. He caught my eye as I laughed and he realised what he was doing and turned away to prevent my blushes!

Nigerian men, I must say, wee anywhere and everywhere, with no shame whatsoever. I lose count in a day of how many times you see a man with a stream of urine being expelled. There are even signs painted in a lot of areas stating do not urinate here. I even saw a public toilet and a man going outside. Mind you, you probably have to be brave to use public toilets here as they are not the best toilets even in the nicest of places. I will also add that children and women can also be seen squatting regularly.

I rushed into the studio at 11.35 as Ify introduced me and asked why I was late. I apologised and blamed Wyhid the driver. The programme was fairly short with me and another lady on it, a bit of small talk about why I was here, then the dreaded question of how does health care here compare with the UK. This is difficult to answer without sounding like “we are great and you are not”, but I do my best at being diplomatic. Ify was really pleasant and I thanked her for asking me onto the show. We had the usual photo shot and I was on my way.

We then went to the Ketu clinic to see all the staff there. I had bought enough gifts so they would have something too, but when I gave them to the girls at Mafoluku, in my naivety, I’d said one thing each as the gifts had to go around, but they went like wild fire. I turned around and nothing was left (if there is a next time I will be less trusting). The Ketu staff said hello and I went in to see the lovely Dr Yussef, we had a good discussion about health issues and how things were going there. He had also visited his sister in England since my last visit and had stayed fairly near me, he even had to attend A&E in the hospital that I work in. I said next time he was to contact me and he assured me he would.

The head nurse then came in and asked if I had bought gifts for them, Nigerians are very big on giving which is really generous of them but they are also very loud in asking. I had to apologise that I had not got anything and explained what happened. I don’t think they were too impressed with me.

Dr Yussef told me about a recent birth they had there. A baby had been born an extended frank breech (basically bum first with legs up by its ears). It also had a myelomeningocele (a growth on the base of the spine associated with Spina bifida, formed due to the spinal canal not closing before birth), this burst at delivery. The baby born weighing 2.3kg (5lb) also had talipes (club foot) and a bowed leg. This in the UK would have been picked up on scan and been delivered somewhere appropriate for its additional care. This baby was transferred to a General hospital and to my knowledge has survived so far. The government will I understand pay for the operations for the baby but any drugs required will have to be paid by the parents. The reason this family didn’t have a suggested scan was that they couldn’t afford one, they too are unlikely to be able to keep up with the cost of medication should this baby survive. Arguably what life is there ahead for this child when you see the streets full of disabled beggars because there is no welfare system to support them?

The afternoon was taken up with resting. I was going to Nando’s this evening, Aderemi the very beautiful and considerate lady that kindly gave me the use of her driver for my stay had offered to catch up with me and take me out. I was intrigued to see if Nando’s was the same as in the UK. The décor was definitely reminiscent of the ones back home but disappointingly there were no olives (Nando’s do the best olives ever but I guess that’s not to Nigerians taste as a rule) or nuts etc and no salads.

Although the menu gave the different heat strengths this was not offered so Nigerian hot it was then. I had a wrap which was certainly different mainly because of the lack of salad, and fries were smaller in portion size. The rice that Aderemi and Femi had however looked loads nicer than the packet style savoury rice they serve at home, Nigerians can certainly do rice. No refill on drinks just your usual bottle choice but I guess the water here can’t be used to be mixed on the premises like in the UK, and Femi joked that Nigerians would sit here all day and drink it. I was surprised to see that they shut at nine here, which is apparently usual and allows staff to get home securely.

The evening ended with my own little fashion show, Angela had a beautiful embroidered buba made for me with a head tie (I think I need practice at that one). Also the material that Eniola kindly gave me on my last visit had been made into a long skirt and top by Fumni the lady who had the caesarean last time. Not my usual attire for home but it will make me stand out as much there as I do here!

Tuesday 1st June 2010 (A baby is born)

2010-06-01T14:22:00.000-07:00

Happy Birthday Angela who has been blessed with 40 years, a great husband and 3 gorgeous children, congratulations!

Well after the heaviest rains I can remember and a storm that was relentless, the generator went off at midnight and darkness fell. Ok any one in England rarely experiences total black out, not being able to see your hand in front of your face, but that’s what it was. Although I couldn’t see I could however feel (maybe my imagination in part) the gnats were biting even though I sprayed my room and could hardly breathe myself, they still came.

After a pretty hot, sweaty sleepless night with no NEPA I received a text at 7.30 to say I will be picked up at nine. Not wanting to fall back asleep I got up and showered in an attempt to wake up. The driver on African time turned up at 10.30, NEPA turned up at 10.15, just in time for me to leave. I gratefully sat in an air conditioned car and the traffic was light and we arrived at Mafoluku within about 15 minutes, to a NEPA free clinic. I am certainly being forced to experience true Nigeria whether I want to or not.

I thought the roads would be bad after last night’s downpour but the areas we drove through were fairly clear of water. The one area that was affected slightly had LAWMA scooping up the mud from the drain sites in the road in an attempt to drain the water away. All credit to the people, most of whom appear to be women, they work hard by the road sides with brooms, dust pan and brushes to improve the look of Lagos, hard work and probably not much pay.

We arrived at Mafoluku and all was quiet, I sat in the office and sorted out some things with Femi and Mr Dee. Femi and I then went to the UBA (United Bank of Africa) to draw out money for wages to pay the staff. Femi prides himself that no matter what, the girls always get paid monthly, regardless of his own finances, a rare thing it seems here. The bank is very different to what I’m used to seeing. Firstly you enter the building via a tardis type doorway one at a time, as the door behind closes the door in front opens, to prevent robberies I assume. Inside there is organised (I’m sure) chaos, cheques are still the norm, lots of paper is still used, broken filing cabinets crammed with files, extension leads and hanging wire everywhere that is typical from the streets to shops to homes. The queue was long and I sat and watched while waiting, finished we entered the tardis again to get out.

After exchanging more pounds for Naira with my airport friend we received a call from Mr Dee saying someone had turned up at the clinic in labour. So we made our way back. On arrival back it became apparent that this woman only spoke French (my poor French was better than everyone else’s). She had just arrived from Niger Republic (a French speaking country just above Nigeria) into the country and had only one episode of antenatal care at 23 weeks which included a scan report (scrap of paper, this ironically is all too often how we see Nigerians in the UK). From the scan we deduced she was around 41 weeks and 4 days and her observations (BP, urine, pulse, fetal heart rate) were all ok. Femi examined her and she was certainly in labour (around 6-7cm to those that understand). She is the sister-in-law of the woman whose son Femi delivered on his return to Nigeria and also a second child recently.

We admitted her to the upstairs ward and I observed whilst a lot of people ran around. The last time I was here I wrote protocols for delivery far less in depth than those back in the UK but trying to improve what the Nurses and assistants already do. To my surprise they all needed constant reminders on what to do. They only monitored contractions and didn’t record strength or length of each one. They were asked to record the fetal heart rate every half an hour and I had to constantly remind them to listen in with the sonic aid. Thankfully all was going well. I encouraged the woman to get up and mobilise and to drink fluids, Femi said to them to give her water at least every 15 minutes as it was so hot with NEPA down.

Suddenly the nurses called out and we went in grabbed our gloves and the baby's head was descending beautifully. Although the woman's pushing was erratic and she was doing her own thing, it worked and the head crowned and seconds later a beautiful baby girl was delivered, no pain relief, no tears, she did very well. The baby was taken to another bed where we dried her off and I prevented them from routinely suctioning the baby’s nose and throat, although later she was a little snuffly and Femi asked that her nose was cleared.

Here they oil the baby pretty much immediately, then after measuring head and length (by holding the baby by the legs and hanging her upside down to my horror), they weighed her (3.1kg about 6lb 8oz). After this they then bathed her in soapy water, welcome to Lagos little one! The baby wasn’t encouraged to have skin to skin contact or breast feed, this probably will not happen for a while, they were not that keen to attach baby too soon the last time I was here. Practices here are so very different to what I am used to and it is very difficult to watch and not want to jump in and change so much, but we had a safe delivery and all was well. I was able to watch over and guide towards change in some areas, but at the end of the day I go back to the UK and they stay here and do what they think is best. It was great to have the delivery but it also saddens me to see how outdated and under trained they are. This is why help is needed to bring healthcare up to developed countries standards.

Shortly after this I had to make my way home, through the rush hour in the lovely Mr Dee’s car. So after being in the heat all night then all day, then in the car whose window won’t open and has no air con for a slow hour’s drive, I was disappointed to find no electric at home. I smiled and asked Mama to put on the generator as it was getting dark and I needed a cool shower like never before.

Monday 31st May 2010

2010-05-31T14:24:00.000-07:00

Today is a public holiday here in Lagos as well as back in the UK. It was a slow start all round today, even the children didn’t rise so early, and no knocks on the door. I got up, showered, had my cornflakes and mango, and eventually when the children realised I was up they all came in one by one. They clamber all over my bed and seem to enjoy wrapping themselves in my cover (especially Sola). The other thing they want is to press buttons on my computer, this I have had to be strict about as they do just press which is a pain when I’m in the middle of anything, so my rules are Do Not Touch!

As distraction from my netbook I went outside with them and watched them crash on their bikes for a while, they seem to get the most fun by taking the bikes indoors and then falling down the large front step and crashing into the car. Bolu was wearing her new Hello Kitty bow in her hair that she proudly told she received from the children’s party at church.

The family all then went out and I sat outside with Nike (the dog) who was now tied up as punishment for the bin episode yesterday. I watched as the red faced lizard ran along the top of the wall dodging the barbed wire and I flapped to get the flies off me, there are so many here. I am feeling quite homesick today and wishing I was going home to see my family, now the children’s day party is over, and with nothing major now planned, the clinic seems quiet, and there seems little reason for me to be here.

Soon Femi arrived with his assistant Fumni, as we were going to Festac to pay another visit to Gloria before I leave. The traffic was slightly reduced again today due to the holiday I guess. As we drove along we suddenly passed a taxi (one of the yellow mini buses built to carry about 8 people usually seen with several more crammed in). It had stopped in the middle of the road with its wheel literally fallen off (don’t think it had passed an MOT recently). All the women passengers were standing on the blocks in centre of the roads, obviously paid for their ride but going nowhere. There seems to be quite a lot of burnt out or smashed vehicles dotted along the road sides, cars, taxis and lorries.

I can’t help but notice people’s shoes as we drive along especially the men’s, I don’t think they worry too much about shoe sizes as a rule here. Many I notice are either too small and their feet hang over the edges whether sandals or even sometimes actual shoes with the back worn over, whilst others are too big and they look like flippers. I guess money dictates what they have and what’s available to them, the ‘shoe shops’ as with most shops tend to be small stalls with a selection of several items, not a cellar full of different sizes.

We arrived at Gloria’s house where the neighbour’s chickens were running around with the pigeons all pecking for food. It appears that chickens and goats run around Lagos much like they would in a farm, they just roam about, I assume people know which ones belong to whom. We stayed and had drinks, chatted for a while then made our way back, I was glad to see Gloria before heading back to the UK.

As we were going we grabbed a snack from a street seller, fried yam and akara with a dollop of a salsa type dressing and a nice bit of chewy goat skin thrown in. I declined the goat skin as when I say chewy, I mean really rubbery, Femi enjoyed it though.

There is a river that is crossed to get to Festac and on the opposite bank I noticed as we were heading back were loads of tin roofed huts/houses all looking precariously like they were about to fall into the river. Many of the rivers that we pass (and there are many in Lagos as its built around lagoons) are sadly full of rubbish and must be extremely polluted. It seems that although Lagos State is making a noticeable effort in clearing up the streets, it has yet to look at the waterways, some are certainly loads worse than others but all are affected. This in turn must affect the health of people as well as wildlife.

On our drive back we witnessed another victim of poor vehicle maintenance. A huge lorry laden with its goods had completely snapped in half down the centre, the middle of it was touching the floor. These things very rarely just happen and not if they have been well maintained and not over loaded. We looked in amazement and both just laughed ‘only in Nigeria’.

I returned home and when the others got in Angela prepared food, fried chicken and turkey (which is always chopped into small potions never cooked whole and sliced). Angela also prepared Amala, which I finally saw how it was made, from yam flour and water stirred and stirred into play dough consistency and turns a grey colour (there may have been more to it than that). This was served with a bean sauce and another hot sauce all of which I can’t remember the names of.

The whole of the evening was filled with the sound of torrential rain, I came in from the garden about five o’clock because it started to spit. By eight we had thunder, lightning and this continued on and on. I wonder what the roads will be like tomorrow as many were flooded today with just showers. Many of the roads have been laid without much if any drainage, it’s a good job the cars seem to be diesel and not petrol, at least they stand half a chance through the roads of river. I also wonder how it affects all those people in those poorly put together buildings, the disabled men scooting around on those skateboards, and all the street workers trying to make their living.

Sunday 30th May 2010

2010-05-30T14:49:00.000-07:00

Today everyone left the house early by 6.00 for church (except me). I stayed in bed a bit longer and got up at a more sensible time. I went to get breakfast and couldn’t find any milk powder, when Angela came back to get me at 10.00 she immediately said she had realised after leaving and gave me several packets to last the week. I think she was more worried than I was but we both quickly had cornflakes before heading back to church.

Sundays traffic again was pleasantly calm, a tenth of the usual amount, so driving is pretty much stress free, and we got to church in about 15 minutes. They were having a children’s day celebration in church today and many of the groups put on shows. Worship was led by the youth choir and they got straight into it and had typical big gospel voices, the young girl really took the lead with no nervousness or shyness.

First of the groups was the smallest ones who came and recited bible verses, all but the two tiniest ones that went all shy and wouldn’t speak. Next was a group of about ten little ones about 4 years old and they did a dance routine, they were so good it brought tears to your eyes, so cute and such natural movers. Then was a drama group that did a sketch that was funny, followed by Bolu’s group that also danced a routine with her in the lead and very well she did too. Last were the older teenagers they also danced and were very professional. It really stands out that for whatever reason Africans definitely have natural rhythm, even the youngest dance well and have natural timing with music. Even the sermon was preached by one of the youth, a young man about 17 with confidence and flair.

The church has about 250 children attend there and they provide food, breakfast and dinner for all of them. Many of these children don’t even have parents at the church and are local poor children that probably struggle to get a decent meal the rest of the week. It has grown so much that another building has to house them, and the food bill keeps growing. They are really working with their community and blessing them.

I was dropped off home by Angela before she headed back to church, and given jollof rice for lunch which was really lovely, it just finished heating in the microwave when NEPA gave up for its afternoon nap. So I sat outside with the dog who had decided to empty the contents of the bin over the garden (he must be wanting that stick again) and waited for Dr Abimbola De-Silva who had kindly offered to look after me for the afternoon. She arrived early, which I never expect as there is on time and African time.

We headed over the Third Mainland Bridge with the houses standing on stilts on one side (where they catch fat fish) and the saw mills which were all featured on the BBC programme ‘Welcome to Lagos’. I had forgotten quite how long it seemed as we travelled across it, about 10 kilometres long if my memory serves me right. Even on here the traffic was light and we sped across with ease.

We headed to the E-centre at Yaba to the cinema where we decided on Sex in the City 2. The cinema was pretty much equal to those back home and certainly in better order than the one in Abuja on my last visit where the chairs were unbolted and they tilted back as you sat down. The film was funny and we sat eating popcorn and when it finished we got wraps from Chicken Republic (like KFC). A chicken wrap which of course has to have a kick in it.

We drove back over the bridge and popped into Abimbola’s house which is on another private estate with guarded entry for security. Large looking houses all with the same Lagos feel but each designed individually, this is a second stage development the first being in Oloworo were I was this week looking at the potential new clinic. Abimbola’s husband wasn’t home so we said a quick hello to her boys that I met at the children’s day party. Then we headed back home and she dropped me off. Another really nice day, people have blessed me so much on my trips.

The children were asleep as I returned so I think I got into my room un-noticed. Everyone else was getting things to eat but I declined all except the mangoes again. Angela pointed out that I don’t eat them properly because I peel them and she eats it all including the skin with exception of the stone. I did try the skin and it was edible but tough so I still declined. When you see what Nigerians eat, you suddenly realise how much many of us waste (except the Gray’s… sorry in-joke). If I eat with Femi he can always find more meat and finishes the gristle, fat and I’m sure even some of the bones!

Saturday 29th May 2010 - The trip to Olumo Rock

2010-05-29T15:30:00.000-07:00

Today I was woken early by a combination of NEPA going down and the heavens opening with the loudest downpour ever. I lay in the humidity of the early morning thinking about getting up, excited about my trip out of town to Olumo rock. I laid there hoping the electricity would soon return as it’s nicer to come out of the shower with the air con giving a coolness to the air allowing you to dry.

The kids had been given bikes and were all outside excited trying to ride them, Sola and Nimi deciding standing on them was mush more fun. Angela then did a cooked breakfast of sausage and eggs. Of course this was not an English fry up it was Nigerian style, frankfurters with a spicy scrambled eggs with onions, pepper and chilli, very nice too.

Today being the last Saturday of the month was environmental day, everyone is expected to clean and tidy around their homes in an attempt to make Lagos a cleaner place. Mr Dee went to get the car from Femi once this allowed him and picked me up at around 12.30. We (Mr Dee, a Nigerian lady also called Jo and myself) were travelling out of town to Ogun state to visit Abeokuta which is home to a Yoruba heritage sight called Olumo rock.

We left Ogba and headed through Ketu and Egege and out of Lagos state into Ogun state. This was not the quickest of journeys as there was heavy traffic at times. Once in Ogun state I suddenly realised how clean Lagos is and how it must have been just a few years ago. Although the further we got in the greener it became and not so crammed with buildings, but the rubbish on the sides of the road was incredible and at times it was like mini dumps, fly tipping would be an understatement. This must have been how Lagos was before the road sweepers were employed to clean it daily. Just as we got into Ogun state the roads became even worse and a huge bottleneck had appeared, horns were being blown even more than usual. For those who have never been to Lagos horns are used to say I’m coming, get out of the way, have you seen me, why are you not moving, as well as just because I feel like it. I think the only law of the road is you must have a horn and that really is the only rule.

There was one town that we drove through (or rather took an hour to travel the mile or so through) that had built an overpass, a well-constructed dual carriageway that for some reason that I cannot for the life of me see was blocked off to traffic and had never yet been used only as a very expensive foot bridge! The road had a huge hole even by Lagos standards and was in part more like a river than a road.

Once through this the roads for the most were fast, fairly well maintained and had relatively little traffic. The views were more of trees, cornfields and luscious green which is stunning against the beautiful brick red of the ground. We went past Aro the biggest Mental hospital you could imagine, the wall must have spread for 2-3 miles and from the outside it looked like it should have been a nature reserve. We then passed Ewekoro and its huge cement factory that is run by Lafarge and Blue Circle and is in the process of expanding.

Eventually we reached Abeokuta home of Olumo Rock and as we arrived I suddenly realised all the taxis had changed from the yellow of Lagos taxis to green. This is meant to be one of the first towns that welcomed missionaries and has a reputation of its people being very friendly. We then travelled past a market that specialised in Nigerian clothes, there were stalls and stalls with every colour of the rainbow and every pattern imaginable. We also went over the Ogu River where Ogun State derives its name, it looked beautiful with the mass of vegetation that surrounded it,

We got to Olumo Rock about 3 hours after leaving this was for about a 65 kilometre journey (40 miles). We entered through the huge gates after paying our entrance fee and there before us was the famous granite rock. We had the choice of a lift (which was a bit of an eyesore against the natural granite rock) or climbing and decided that climbing would be more fun, we had a guide to take us around and inform us of the history and he took my camera and took photos too.

It is not the highest place in the world at around 137m but certainly was a fair climb in the humid heat of Nigeria. First was the main Olumo shrine where once a year only 2 people can enter, they used to sacrifice people but thankfully now just animals. There was a low cave where families would shelter in times of war, there were bowls carved into the floor. We went up this crevice which started with stairs and soon turned into boulders which we had to stretch across and anyone that knows me would have been proud of how I managed without fear and trepidation! The ‘safety measures’ were brown lines saying do not cross, every time I went within two feet of these Mr Dee panicked and pulled me back ( I think the fear of Femi’s wrath if I had slipped was his main concern). There appears sadly not a huge amount of well kept history in Nigeria probably not always realising its importance for future generations. This sight is of great importance to the Yoruba tribe which is predominately the main culture I have seen here.

We descended down on the inside staircase and made our way back to the car. We had dinner in a local ‘café’, the woman had run this place for forty years and governors and allsorts have eaten there. We had amala, Ogbono, goat and fish which was really lovely. Everyone was making a fuss of the ‘Oyibo’ and women would come in and say welcome. I then had the photo shot with the women handing me their babies, just as I handed one baby back it weed all over the floor and its mother, I would not have been so happy if it hadn’t waited those vital few seconds!

We then made our way back leaving at around 5.30 and again hitting the traffic in both Ogun and Lagos states I got in about 8.30. Femi was relieved to hear I was home (he was concerned as to whether I would be safe and not altogether happy with me going, so I thank him for letting me and lending us his car). Angela also rang to make sure I was OK, and when I came in she offered to make me dinner but even though it was jollof rice I had to decline as I was full. As I was sitting writing my blog I could hear Julie Andrews and the hills are alive, I went into the front room and just laughed as Angela and her sister in-law was watching The Sound Of Music. My favourite! Thanks Mr Dee for a great day and a memory that will last.

Friday 28th May 2010

2010-05-28T14:44:00.000-07:00

Today was to be a day for resting. I was not that keen to spend the day at home to be honest. I didn’t rush to get up, showered, it must have been about 9.45 and followed by breakfast, cornflakes and toast with jam today about 10.30. NEPA was kind and the air con stayed on keeping me cool. I was also blessed with good internet access (not as slow as it normally can be here) so I was able to upload photos and do bits and pieces there.

At around 1.30 I decided that rather than go completely stir crazy in my room, I would sit outside. It’s not so much a garden as a paved side way. The family has a dog, white fluffy about the size of my dog back home (albeit slimmer and younger) that up until now has never been keen on me or rather it has liked my ankles and gone for them every time it saw me. It often had to be seen off by the children, whenever I came in from outside, or shouted at by Mama. Today I decided I was going to sit out and we would get on. As he ran up to me I showed him I was not afraid and was in charge (I thought that’s meant to work). He sat glaring at me and I offered my hand, after a while he came over eventually giving his paw to me and I stroked him. At last we were friends and I was able to enjoy sitting out, but as I went in to grab my phone he still went for my ankles, a playful thing I’m sure!

Emma (my older daughter) skyped me and we had a chat whilst the dog who is now very friendly kept nudging me and jumping up to get my attention. That was until Mama shouted at him and showed him a stick, he then laid down quietly. When the children came home, the driver took me to meet Angela at her work place.

The evening traffic was bad, we arrived and waited for Angela to finish work. Angela had generously offered to buy me material and have me and my daughters something made. So when she was out we went to a shop to buy material, this was where Angela has her hair done, and I chose three patterns from about six. We than went to the tailors, not a grand shop as it might be in the UK, there are many tailors here as many people have their clothes made by hand especially traditional clothes and they are far cheaper than in the UK, which is why I bought my material back to be cut and made. There were children running around barely clothed themselves in an area similar to that of Mafoluku. They may be poor but the clothes they make are beautiful and they are very good seamstresses.

We then made our way through the very busy rush hour traffic to a grocery shop that has a good reputation locally, run by a husband and wife with good service to its customers, which even Angela said was rare here. We grabbed some roasted corn from a street seller as a snack and then drove to the Chinese to grab some Singapore noodle to take away. As the driver and every other driver on the road drove from side to side dodging the huge pot holes, it made me think of the few back home after the bad weather that everyone complains of. Here they are everywhere from side roads to major roads some times you zig-zag along to avoid them.

As we made our way back home, an ambulance came along the road with lights and sirens going and no one moved it just sat in the traffic like the rest of us unable to make its way through. No one seemed to be thinking that this might be someone dying or that it was going to an accident. Femi only said yesterday that if you call an ambulance or fire engine they sometimes never even arrive or at best can take ages. This obviously is one of the reasons, no one sees it as a priority or urgent, something that could save lives, again I think this is down to education and ignorance. I would imagine the use of these emergency vehicles has been abused and so people don’t believe it is really urgent. They are not regulated and managed like our services. We in the UK know if we dial 999 whatever we need should be there within minutes wherever we are, and if it wasn’t we would want answers to why not.

Eventually we made it home it was now dark but only just seven o’clock, only one road I noticed had street lights, shops were often lit with single hanging bulbs. The roads were still bustling with people the evening trade goes on later here. When home I was welcomed by the children and sat in my room to enjoy my Singapore noodles followed by mango. I played online hangman with Beth and then Battleships with the help of the three musketeers here, which all got a little too excitable and our own battle commenced here for button pressing duties! Soon it was goodnight Beth and goodnight Bolu, Sola and Nimi and the peace and quiet of my room.

Thursday 27th May 2010 - Children's Day

2010-05-27T13:42:00.000-07:00

The day of the Children’s Party was here. I was picked up by Mr Dee, an earlier start than usual as I had a radio interview with the lovely Mr Femi Sowoolu of Continental Radio. I had met him on my last visit here and had kept in touch via Facebook and he kindly invited me back again to discuss WFA and our Children’s Day party. The show went well, but I worry as although Femi has a very clear dialect, the show includes a phone in and I find it difficult to grasp what people are saying sometimes. Mr Dee and I always laugh as we can never get what each of us is saying. He says I talk fast, but I think Nigerians do but although it is English they do use words we don’t often use or mix it slightly with Yoruba.

The callers ended up being children saying thank you for my efforts and wishing me happy Children’s day. One young caller however asked if I could help his Mummy to put him though school and when Femi said I was already doing a lot, the boy insisted I helped him. This is typical of the desperation some children have here. The show finished and I thanked Femi for having me again and he tried to get me slotted into the morning TV show, but the schedule was full with children so I may be asked to return on another day.

When we got back to Mafoluku preparations were well under way. The crowds were gathering even though it didn’t start till midday and it wasn’t even 11, all eager to get a place at the party. The tables of toys were laid out, there were hundreds on display, party bags were filled with gifts for many of the children, and others would get smaller toys as well as clothes. So many had collected vouchers to attend and yet there were even more turning up. The children waited patiently in the heat of the day whilst we tried to be at least a bit organised, which always seems difficult with Nigerians. We handed out sweets but as there were so many children there was not enough to go around.

Eventually after the guests of honour (3 men from the CDC, CDA and the landlord of one of Mafoluku’s streets and Dr Abimbola Da-silva) had arrived and things were as organised as possible the party commenced. Mr Dee was the master of ceremonies and introduced us all then the national anthem was sung by two young children. Then the usual thing certainly for any Nigerian gathering, speeches from the guests of honour, that can go on a while. Then tickets were drawn and children were invited up to receive extra prizes.

Angela and the children turned up to support and join in. Eniola who I met on my last visit also came along to support the event and help out, as well as Femi’s younger sister. Then food and drinks were given out to all the guests, bags with sausage rolls and donuts, plates of puff-puff, spring rolls, samosas and plantain. After eating, children were invited up for dancing competitions, to tell jokes or riddles etc and won prizes. Then they were invited in to receive goodie bags that had sweets, crisps, toys etc in. Then they were ushered upstairs to choose clothes, to make this fair it was decided two items per person so that everyone would have the chance to have some and that only a few people at a time. The women were going mad, wanting several items, getting angry when not allowed to take more. One woman that had some items taken and thrown back flung herself with her baby strapped to her back over the hospital bed to retrieve them. Chaos ensued with nearly every group refusing to accept the rules, and not appearing grateful for what they had been given. I guess this is the side of poverty that isn’t so pleasant to observe. In their defence if you struggle to provide due to extreme poverty when an opportunity comes along you make the most of it. Others including Fumni (with the baby) were so grateful and happy to be given stuff.

The disco played on loudly and some went home whilst a few danced and played. Lola Adewole was a late comer but came laden with gifts, drinks, crisps, biscuits, lollies. We filled up a few more party bags and pulled in a few more children that hadn’t been lucky enough the first time. Then we went out into the street and handed out lollies and crisps even a few of the local men that hang about had some.

At the end when most was cleared up everyone was shattered we all sat around exhausted. It had been a manic, chaotic day, I think the kids had a great time, certainly the look on most of their faces gave that impression. It was the first event WFA had done just for children and on such a scale, I’m sure lessons would have been learned for the next such event. But given the circumstances and the environment in which this is done I feel it was a great success. Well done to all the staff, local people, friends of WFA and people back in the UK that donated money, toys, clothes etc. Without the effort that everyone put into this these children would not have had the memorable day and the gifts that they did have. Thank you, E-se.

Wednesday 26th May 2010

2010-05-26T12:04:00.000-07:00

Woken up by the heat as NEPA was down, the kids sounded grumpy maybe they were hot too. Showered and dressed I got my breakfast from the kitchen, cornflakes with powdered milk, fresh milk doesn’t seem to be available here everyone mixes powder with water. I said good morning to Mama as she is fondly referred to, she is the house keeper. She often giggles at my attempts at Yoruba at her as I say E-se (thank you) & E-karo (good morning).

Mr Dee picked me up this morning, the traffic was bad again and we slowly crawled and weaved our way to Mafoluku. Without the luxury of air con in Mr Dee’s car when we stopped the heat soared, he kept apologising as the electric window is also faulty and wouldn’t fully open. I really didn’t mind his kindness at picking me up was far greater than my discomfort.

As we drove or rather sat in traffic I watched the Lagos world go by which never ceases to amaze me or make me laugh or cry. Such a mix of things that are so different to what I see as normal living in the UK. People are fetching water from communal taps and then walking with the heavy and full buckets and bowls of water on their heads. So many shack type shops selling pretty much anything you can imagine, it makes you wonder how they make any money when so many sell the same things. LAWMA, Road workers sweeping the roads in an attempt to keep Lagos clean. Men working hard digging the dirt and garbage from the large road side gutters, that separate the road and the shops to allow for drainage. At every entrance to the shop there are precarious boards to cross over like a draw bridge.

The disabled begging many seem to have these skateboard type things to sit on as their legs are withered and thin due to polio, they shoot around the traffic in hope of money, no wheelchairs for them. Many of these I understand from Femi came from the north where they refused vaccines as they fear it is something ‘Christians’ will give them to kill them. Improvement has been made in the area and fewer people now suffer from Polio. Still many can be seen in most areas along the roads begging.

Once at Mafoluku I took advantage of the fans to cool down and grabbed a sprite, all was quiet so I caught up on the internet. Femi made his breakfast which made me laugh, a pint glass filled with cornflakes, several sugar cubes, milk powder then water poured over the top (I spent five minutes making sure my power had dissolved before adding cornflakes! Only in Nigeria!).

Money was required to buy paint to freshen up the downstairs in preparation for the party. The staff hadn’t budgeted for this so I gave them money from the donations 2000 naira which is only about £9. They purchased paint and keenly commenced painting. It could be said a little too keenly as it was everywhere, no masking tape, no sheeting just rollers and paint, and once Femi had seen it and raised his voice (scary!) cloths were grabbed and light switches, tables, desks, floors and faces were wiped. We then had a quick African dance move session before I treated them to donuts for all their hard work.

After noon and the TV crew arrived from IMPC to shot a short documentary on Wish For Africa. They are behind a charity football match that is being held on 6th June with celebrity players and one of the teams will be playing for us. As we went from room to room for different shots one of the staff members were interviewed, then Femi, then myself. By the time it was my turn I was suitably hot and sweaty, being a celebrity certainly isn’t my thing, but all in a good cause.

Mr Dee then took me home borrowing Femi’s car as he didn’t want me sweating so much again, and we have to go straight for a radio station tomorrow. Poor Femi will have to slum it in Mr Dee’s car if he goes out, sorry! On the way home we drove through a different area of town, Mongoro Agege. It was the first time I had seen a railway, as with many things here it appeared to be work in progress some of the lines were being replaced, many were not properly joined. Further down the track I could see a train but it is obviously restricted on its destination. Apparently like many things that fail here, the people that were in government had no interest in railways but in haulage, so why put money into something that you personally won’t make money from? Plans are now set to improve the railway system and like all major cities they recognise the need for a better railway system if the dreams of a Mega city are to come to fruition.

On my return I was greeted by the children, all started calmly as they joined me in the room then they were full of excitement and came in jumping over me and the bed. After a while Mama came in and insisted they left the room to calm down. Any shyness from them has certainly gone. They have their moments but the are such beautiful children I am blessed to be staying with them (as long as the keep out of my bags :-)

Tuesday 25th May 2010

2010-05-25T14:03:00.001-07:00

NEPA was kind overnight and the air con stayed on without fail, even to the point of me leaving at about ten. I had the usual goodbye from the children on their way to school. Femi turned up around ten and we headed off to pick up Mr Dee before making our way to pay a visit to the build at Alagbado. Unfortunately progress has been delayed due to lack of finances and support, although the medical centre certainly had improved from my last visit. The outside had been rendered, roofing on and inside the floors and many of the walls had been tiled. The tiles looked great, not too clinical which is rare in a Nigerian hospital, a nice touch. A long way to go until completion but by Gods grace, sponsors and donations will allow its completion.

The Alagbado area has no local hospitals at all, the nearest we know of is about 3 miles away. This distance is just not practical for many to travel and with local herbalists and witch doctors on the doorsteps this is their first choice as its cheap and accessible. Many Nigerians have been brought up with this kind of medicine and believe it to be safe, which it often isn’t and at best doesn’t harm them but neither does it heal them. Another Doctor set up a local business nearby but found that turning the clinic into a brothel would be far more profitable. There is a huge need for help in this area and the local people deserve better.

We then made our way back via the airport, so I could change up some money for myself and some of the money donated from Beth’s school and friends to pay for the children’s party. We met ‘our man’ on his moped at the airport, bartered for a good price, then off he went to meet with his next client. No one uses banks to exchange money in Nigeria - another black market thing that is tolerated and accepted.

We then made our way back to Mafoluku and the clinic, passing though the back streets of Oshodi. At one point we were following the dustman as everyone runs out to chuck their rubbish in the back of the dustcart. As we arrived in the road of the clinic, Fumni (caesarean delivery last year) was sitting outside the tailors with the baby. With a huge smile she stood up with Rachel and I got out of the car, she handed me Rachel, who was not so pleased to see me and burst out crying. A strange Oyibo (white person) turning up and snatching you might be scary if you have never met one before.

Later Fumni came to the clinic to measure me up for an outfit to be made from some material that Eniola kindly gave me on my last visit. Femi hoped it would be ready for children’s day, so I could dress for the occasion. As soon as I walked into the room the baby cried again, I definitely have not made a good impression on her!

At the clinic we opened the suitcases everyone was amazed at generosity of people back in the UK and their thoughtfulness at wanting to send stuff to people they do not know. Their was also medical things that the staff in the gynae clinic back home sorted out which Femi was very pleased with, stuff that can be difficult to obtain and often very costly here. Everyone was very excited and wanted to look and touch everything, asking what some things were. The children’s day party should be a huge success and a big thank you to all those back home that helped make it happen.

Femi wanted to go to the local pool for a swim, so I accompanied him, although I didn’t have swimwear so I sat poolside and wrote my blog. I also enjoyed some suya a hot spiced meat which was tender and enjoyable. My only chance for a tan and it was overcast, typical. It made a nice change to be able to sit out & enjoy the warm weather. We went back to the clinic to eat rice and a spinach type dish with chicken. I find food here very filling and can never eat all I’m given, I guess because it’s so starchy.

The other bizarre thing that keeps happening (please tell me if it has happened to you) I keep getting repeated texts sent to me. Tony, Michelle and Femi all sent me a text on arrival in Nigeria and since then the same ones keep coming through not once or twice but several times a day (and night!) Again, ‘only in Nigeria’!

Monday 24th May 2010

2010-05-24T14:23:00.000-07:00

A disturbed night, as not feeling my best (not quite sure why). The children knocked to say good morning before leaving for school, all looking smart in their uniforms. Nigerian school wear is different from what we are used to seeing in the UK. The children always appear smart for school even in the poorer areas. Bola, Sola and Nimi were no exception to this rule, I gave each one a kiss and they went on their way (home work in hand).

Femi texted to say the driver we have been lent very kindly for my stay by Aderemi Fagbemi was having car trouble and wasn’t sure when it would be ready (I could say this a hundred times a day ‘only in Nigeria’). So it was relax, chill and wait. NEPA off, I went back to bed, then NEPA on I decided to iron before it went off again.

The driver Waiha (I think that was his name) arrived, delayed in part by the very heavy Lagos traffic, but once we were on our way it was clear how busy it was. We passed though areas I had not been before, trying to avoid the busier roads to Mafoluku. As we drove up M M I Airport Rd the holes along the sides had been filled in, they are in the process of widening the road, realising that this is the main road that every one travels down from the airport and first impressions matter. Well that is unless you look too closely and notice the poverty at the edge of this road. I think that is the case as poverty is every where in Lagos. I have not seen one place that it isn’t in one extreme or another.

I arrived at the clinic and by the time the driver had turned the car around, all the staff were out of the building shouting and screaming with excitement. I got out the car and was attacked with hugs and kisses, what a welcome! We went inside as a meeting was in progress deciding on plans for the party on Thursday, which I joined in on. When the meeting was over I gave out presents to the girls of sunglasses and earrings which went down very well.

There is an exciting new project that Femi is getting involved with. Lagos Ministry of Health are setting up a community based healthcare prepayment scheme. The theory is that the poor pay a small but regular amount and when they need treatment it is free at source. We went to Oloworo another poor area near Magodo where a project has been up and running for nearly two years. Femi is in the process of potentially managing this in the near future. This means a regular income, support and being able to provide care in another poor area of Lagos.

We were shown around the hospital, it was purpose built bright and clean. The hospital contained two wards, male and female each with two beds, treatment room, consultant room, labour room & delivery room. It also has its own generator so not reliant on NEPA, and a water tank for constant water.

We went in and met representatives of the Ministry of Health and of the community scheme, discussing the details of the working relationship, our ideas and their restrictions. It was a very successful meeting and I look forward to my next trip to see this in progress. Lagos has certainly started to make changes and although much is long over due, it does appear to be making headway. It now needs the Diaspora to be catalysts of this change and people with long term vision, which arguably has often been one of Nigeria’s short comings. Enthusiasm, passion and ideas are many but seeing them through to the end seems to be the problem, often corruption gets in the way of the end goals.

I returned home and was greeted by the children back from school. NEPA was down so I thought I’d grab a nap as it was hot and dark inside. The children thought otherwise and decided my room would make the best playing area in the house. As I said earlier children are much the same where ever you go.

Angela who insists in spoiling me, cooked another delicious meal of fried rice and chicken. This was followed by fresh mangoes, which like most fruit here looks far less ‘attractive’ then in the UK but tastes so much nicer. I was joined once again by Bola who likes to come in and sit with me, she is lovely and reminds me of Beth, who I spoke to on the phone over dinner.

Sunday 23rd May 2010

2010-05-23T15:00:00.000-07:00

My first night sleep wasn’t too bad, disturbed only by the unfamiliar noise of the air con and the fact that the same two text messages came through about five times each. Angela and the children were up early to be at church for around seven. I was going to go to the second service and Angela would come back around ten to take me (the thought of rising at six for church was a little daunting).

As I laid on my bed thinking about getting up and ironing my clothes, NEPA (Nigeria’s electrical network) went down, so no electricity, no lights, no fans, no air con, no iron! I was able to have a warm shower although the power was low, but in the humid heat drying wasn’t a simple task, even my fine hair remained damp. Just about ten o’clock and NEPA was up, I turned on a fan (good job the house was empty as I danced in front of it drying my hair).

Angela came back to pick me up and we drove the 15 minutes to her church The Redeemed Christian Church of God, The Life Spring. In comparison with other churches I have been to in Nigeria this was quiet small, but very friendly and I enjoyed the service. The theme was on having to give some things up so God can give us even more, like Noah, Abraham & Hannah. It also reminded me that Angela was giving up a lot to take me a stranger into her house and blessing me, so I in turn can bless others here in Lagos.

Whenever I have been to a church here, they always ask who has come for the first time, being that I have been to a different church every Sunday I always have to say yes (there is no way of hiding this fact as I’m the only white woman there). I then go off to a side room and get fed, this time a hot dog and fruit juice and also generous gifts, a mug, pen and a book. All we give at home is a cup of tea :-)

Returning home the children (Bola, Sola, Nimi) one by one join me in my room and ‘we’ do homework (they did it all by themselves really if Angela is reading this), it’s like being at home with Beth, trying to get them to concentrate on what they are doing. Children wherever they are, wherever they are from can be so similar in so many ways.

Femi came over in the afternoon and took me to see a friend, Gloria (Angela’s sister that showed me around on my previous visit). We drove to Festac, where I last went for Angela’s wedding. The okadas, taxis, buses, cars, people all jostling for spaces on the roads, I had to get back into non panic Nigerian mode. We stopped to buy fruit from the market - there were yams, carrots, tomatoes, pineapple, bananas, melons, mangos and some things I have never seen before. I just love the hustle and bustle that surrounds these places. The discarded fruit and rubbish was all in the open gutters and rotting, not the most pleasant of smells.

After our visit we headed back stopping to pick up some roasted corn by the road side, I also tried a fruit that I did not recognise, Femi also didn’t know it. It was mauve/ black and tasted like nothing I have had before, quite tart in taste but green like avocado in texture. We headed home past Oshodi and Mafoluku, can’t wait to get back there tomorrow.

When I got back Damola had returned home, Angela cooked dinner it was delicious. I asked what it was and she informed me it was egg and corned beef... well anyone that knows me knows I wouldn’t go near corned beef with a barge pole, I hate it! It was a good job I tasted how nice it was before being told. I will take the recipe home for Tony who is a fan! I was joined for dinner with a family of cockroaches in my bathroom, six in varying sizes and states of coma, Angela promptly sprayed them and swept them up, even though she was more bothered by them than me!

My return to Lagos 2010: May 22nd

2010-05-23T14:42:00.000-07:00

I was taken to Heathrow terminal 5 by Tony, Beth and Michelle on this beautiful sunny day, summer had arrived and I’m leaving. The very nice man allowed my overweight suitcases though without cost and I headed though customs, a quick tearful goodbye and I was on my own.
This time I was not running with black men, it was much more relaxed and less stressed, having plenty of time to make my way down stairs, on the train to gate B45. Once boarded on the plane I found it to be half empty due I guess to the pending BA strikes, but this meant we had room to move. The flight went well with only the odd bit of turbulence and kept to time even though we left 20 minutes late.

The plane started to descend into Lagos and the green rural areas receded and the now familiar sight of the tin roofed buildings and the dusty roads take precedence. We land at the some what dated Murtala Mohammed Airport, and soon are making our way off the plane. Immediately the heat hits us, with very little in the way of air conditioning, the sweat soon takes over.

Once though arrivals I headed to get my bags, assuming Femi would be there to meet me as last time. Unfortunately he was unable to enter the building this time which meant I had to struggle alone with collecting 3 very heavy bags. Luckily I had some Naira and was able to obtain a trolley, and a nice gentleman assisted me with my final one lifting it on top. I made my way outside followed by a concerned female security guard, wanting to ensure I knew who was collecting me.

There was Femi with his huge handsome smile to greet me, along with Funmi, who I knew from my last visit. The hustle and bustle immediately hits as you step out of the airport, the sights and sounds of Lagos, I just love it! As you look around at the money men making deals on Naira, disabled people hoping to stir the conscience of the ‘wealthy’ and many others hoping to cash in on the travellers.

Once in the car we headed towards Ikeja and the house of my hosts Angela and Damola, a secured area with guard entry. We found the house and received a warm welcome from Angela and children.

A large open planned house, very different in style and feel to UK homes. I was shown to my room. The children were very keen to receive their gifts, so helped raid my suitcase in the hunt for jelly babies. I unpacked, spoke to home and then we ate delicious shrimp rice and a red hot sauce with chicken, I love the taste of Nigeria. Then off to write this blog and to go to bed, air con bellowing.

Returning to Lagos 2010

2010-04-27T13:26:00.000-07:00

Preparing for Lagos

I had been thinking of returning to Lagos for a while but this is a costly event, flights, visa, hotels etc, so I had pretty much given up on it happening this year. Then out of the blue after receiving a very kind offer of accommodation with the lovely Angela Edewede Atanda (I went to their wedding on my last visit) and family in near by Ikeja and then checking out that she really meant the offer, I went into action. First Tony, he gave me his blessing, then Femi who seemed more than happy that I would pop over. Ideally I wanted to include National Children’s day May 27th, as a party was being planned for the local children in Mafoluku. I checked out that I was OK to take annual leave at this time and then booked my flights.

I planned to meet Folakemi Olaleye in London to go to the Nigerian High Commission and get my visa together (assuming she would know where to go and of course she was no wiser than me!). We met in Charing Cross station and then made our way to find an internet café as Femi had only just managed to email his passport details to me (usual problems rain stopping internet in Lagos) and I needed to print them. Then we headed for the NHC to obtain my visa.

We entered the building and went down stairs, there we grabbed our number and sat with the crowd. The closely packed seated area reminded me of Church in Nigeria, minus the dodgy sound system. Everyone was chatting as we patiently awaited our number to be called. After about an hour or so it was my turn, I went to the desk was greeted by a polite man, who then proceeded to look at my application quizzically, I wondered what I had done wrong or forgotten. He asked me to take a seat and disappeared without explanation, this hadn’t happened to others in front of me!

On his return he beckoned me over, and said could I return at 3.30 or tomorrow as the High commissioner wanted to see me. I asked was there something wrong, to which he said no they had received my email. Femi had said to me, email the NHC and mention that I was applying for a visa and tell them about my previous trip, he said they may be interested. The NHC hadn’t replied to this email so I assumed that they were not interested.

I agreed to return later that day, Folakemi and myself went off laughing at the thought of being asked to be seen by the High Commissioner. We had lunch in China town, went and sat in the sunshine of Trafalgar Sq wasting time until we could return. We made our way back into the NHC and went downstairs again. Someone came and got us and took us up stairs, we then followed two gentlemen at great speed up another couple of flights of stairs. Folakemi and myself were quiet breathless as we ran to keep up. We waited outside a room, where men in smart suits kept walking past and politely saying hello. Eventually the men came out and apologised that Dr Tafida was about to have a meeting.

We were then ushered down the stairs to another office, where we discussed with the two men (who’s name I am not sure of, Mr Mohammed I believe was one) the work and ethos of Wish For Africa, my personal experience of Nigeria, the BBC programme ‘Welcome to Lagos’. I was also asked what I thought I could do to improve the health system of Nigeria ( I felt a little out of my depth with this question I must say!). We were treated to green tea and biscuits, but time was getting on and over an hour had passed. We decided we had to go due to family commitments and thanked our guests. This was after we were informed I needed a special delivery envelope for them to return my passport/visa and we had run to the nearest post office just before it closed to obtain it.

So although excited at the chance of discussing 'Wish For Africa' with the High Commissioner and then the disappointment that it never happen, it felt an eventful start to my next Nigerian adventure. Although I was in London it all felt so very Nigerian in a familiar, comforting sort of way. :-)

Wish for Africa’s New Year’s celebration of 2009

2010-02-14T13:39:00.000-08:00

As the day drew near the number of friends of Wish for Africa wishing to join the celebration at the 805 restaurant in the Old Kent Rd, London, surpassed the places we had booked. So the night before Femi was sweet talking Uncle James (owner of 805) to fit in a few more seats to accommodate everyone.

I arrived around 19.30 (as I was told 'no African time o') with Tony and Michelle, Femi was already there and setting things up. A steady flow of people with one common interest, all supporters, friends or champions of Wish for Africa started to arrive. The gentlemen were all looking smart and handsome, the women looking beautiful and stunning.

Greetings and welcomes were made and seats were taken, everyone chatting and getting to know each other. Photo time and everyone keen to be snapped next to each other, new and old friends alike. The food ordered, we sat to eat and what a Nigerian feast! Jollof, fried yam, pounded yam, amala, plantain, egusi, fish, the spread looked amazing. Everyone tucked in enjoying the food and the company.

Abby our very own 'Oprah' took the mike and got everyone to say how they are associated with Wish for Africa. Then myself, Doyo Olomu, Ola Olundegun, Olaitan, Abimbola, Bola and of course the master of ceremonies Dr Femi Olaleye spoke about our involvement with WFA over the past year and our hopes for its future. Speaking about medical missions, trips, support events etc (to find out more go to http://www.wishforafrica.org/ or visit the cause page on facebook).

An amazing evening and many thanks for the donations and words of encouragement and thanks that everyone shared with both myself, Femi and everyone that helps the cogs of WFA to run.

We have an amazing God that has blessed us with so much here in the UK, we have such wealth, we have running water and electricity, if we are hungry we eat, if we are ill we get treated, when someone in the UK dies its not usually because we can't get treated or haven't got the money to get treated. We live in a consumer throw away society that wastes more than many have.

We can all make a difference, not everyone can be a Dr Femi Olaleye or even a Jo Watts but we can all do something however small or big that can affect the life of those that have nothing or just far less than ourselves.

To help do your bit join the cause 'Wish for Africa' on facebook and invite your friends to give awareness to the good works being done.

Donate either a one off payment or set up a direct debit, the good works we do at WFA cannot happen without the financial support of its supporters.

Encourage employers to support the cause. Send items such as medical equipment etc. Whatever you can give or whatever you can do will make a huge difference to the people in the deprived areas of Mafoluku, Ketu, Alagbado and beyond.

Walk 4 wish 15th August 2009

2009-08-15T13:49:00.001-07:00

As we all arrived in Morrison’s Thamesmead at 10.00 on a warm but overcast day, we looked across and saw a growing array of red and white. Great I thought people have come, as we gathered, chatted, hugged and welcomed each other even more turned up.

We had the customary photo shot and pep talk from Femi and then started to split into groups and headed off. I was walking with Michelle, Folakemi, a Doctor friend of Femi and Beth and Tolu. Danni started the walk with us but she (the fit one) was running so soon she sped off in her lycra!

The kids had a great time Beth on her bike and Tolu on his scooter, I am sure they did 3 times as much as us, back and forth. The weather brightened up and the sun came out. It was a lovely walk along the Thames path, with blackberries to pick and sailing boats passing by.

At the half way point (by the skateboard park Woolwich) we all met up and well earned refreshments were waiting. We sat chatted and when everyone had arrived, Femi gathered us all together to thank us and remind us why we were doing this.

30 or so people sat and listened to an inspired and inspiring man sharing his dreams and being encouraged to do their bit. He shared his dreams for Wish for Africa, that one day affordable healthcare in Africa will be as accessible and well known to all as MacDonalds. That no one will be turned away or have second rate services due to their income and status.

We were reminded of the state of healthcare and the cost that many, probably 65% (the amount that live in poverty in Nigeria) find difficult to afford. How it has the second highest maternal death rate in the world. How the woman who we performed a caesarean section on would almost certainly have died if she had gone into labour due to the state of her uterus.

We then gathered for photos, tidied away our rubbish, gathered together all the bits and headed back to Thamesmead. Tired and hot we were all treated to ice creams, which really went down well with the kids (and the adults). Again a big thanks to all that attended from Femi and we headed off.

Some of us went back to Folakemi’s and were treated to Jollof rice and chicken, a fitting end to a Wish for Africa day.

I can not begin to name all those that took part, I would only forget so many and misspell the rest, but I am so proud of everyone that attended and it was a fun day. It was great to meet you all and put faces to names. I look forward to seeing you all again soon and hopefully next time with your friends.
Thanks to all
Jo

UK, London, Trafalgar Square August 12th 2009

2009-08-12T13:12:00.000-07:00

The first of our two August events that we had been excitedly preparing for, Ola standing on the 4th plinth in Trafalgar Square had finally arrived.

The day commenced with meeting Femi at Greenhithe station to catch the train into London, this gave us time to catch up on agendas and updates of what is going on with things in person rather than via email and text. We headed from Charing cross to Warren St station to make our way for an interview with Flower on Ben TV, after a cancelled train it was a fast walk to get there on time. We were interviewed and were able to share what Wish for Africa has been up to with things like the River State medical mission, my trip to Lagos and forthcoming events such as today’s and the Walk 4 Wish event on Saturday.

The TV interview over I headed back to Charing cross to meet family and friends, whilst Femi headed to Colourful FMs office for another interview with Rosemary Laryes. For me it was a well needed coffee, after which we made our way to meet Ola at Trafalgar Sq. The famous tourist attraction was as busy as ever.

I called Ola and he was being interviewed in the big green portacabin owned by One and Other the event organisers, so I headed over to meet him. Finally many of the friends and family supporting us turned up and it was Ola’s turn on the plinth. The big JCB with a green cage came to pick him up and transport him up onto the plinth, to the sounds of cheers from all us down below.

With Ola on the plinth, the rest of us adorned our T shirts and raised the banner displaying the cause that we had united to support ‘Wish for Africa’. Many people came over to ask for more details and took information. A lady that had been thrown a T-shirt by Ola from on high came over and explained that she was going to get fellow artists at her college to sign and donate money to the cause and would send it on.

With the web cam constantly on checking out Ola’s goings-on on the plinth and relaying it all over the world, this was a fantastic opportunity for us at Wish for Africa. Also Mr Youb from Ben TV came along to see us. We also had the opportunity for a live chat with Naija FM’s Sen’ Clemence, chatting with us and sharing the day with his listeners, again giving us fantastic support and coverage.

The hour on the plinth sped past and the JCB headed over with the next person on in. Ola dismounted the plinth to a huge cheer and a very English chant of ‘for he’s a jolly good fellow’, which did make me laugh as it wasn’t a mainly English audience!! The final photo shot and thank yous to all that had come to help and support the event and we dispersed home. What a great day and great opportunity to plug a worthwhile cause, along with the chance to meet many facebook friends and to share the work with others too.

A huge thanks to Ola, his beautiful wife, my Husband Tony and Beth, Michelle, Aminata, Adebola, Olaitan, Toyin, Christina, Temi, Abby, Oladunn, Olu, Sarah, Funke, Tolu, Mo, Clint and all the other supporters that I have forgotten to mention by name. Also again for the support of Ben TV, Naija FM and Colourful FM for the coverage they gave and continue to give.

Ola said that he had been inspired by my efforts to help his fellow Nigerians through Wish for Africa and because of that he had given his time on the plinth to raise awareness of this cause. We can all make a difference, we can all do something small or big, never think “it’s not enough to make a change”, never think “what is the point”! I did something, Ola has done something, you too can do something, and you too can be change agents and make a difference! Go on try it….you know you want to!

Goodbye Lagos! Saturday 6th

2009-06-07T12:39:00.000-07:00

Awoken at 06.30 by a shower of texts, each one lovely albeit a bit early! Eventually I rose from my bed, showered and began to pack. After obsessively checking every draw and cupboard several times, I convinced myself that I hadn’t left anything. Soon I had a visit from David, wanting to make sure he saw me before I left, to wish me a safe journey and to talk about his dreams of visiting me in England one day.

Mr Solomon also came to show me my bill on my request so I knew how much money I needed to exchange. As you can’t take money out of the country and exchange it, there’s no point in having more than necessary. He also asked to keep in touch and offered to take me and or my luggage to the airport should I need it, in his own car.

As I waited for Femi, who was seeing to a patient this morning, to come over, the electricity seemed to be off more than on and the internet the same. I think this was to ensure I would become frustrated enough to be willing to get on the plane and head home!

Eventually Femi arrived and I settled the bill and we made our way to the airport to check the luggage in. Unlike Heathrow you take your bags to a manual scale, then they open your hold luggage to check it, then you put your luggage on a ‘normal’ airport scales, get your boarding pass and the luggage goes to the plane. The terminal is incredibly busy and unfortunately Nigeria doesn’t take advantage of this (as with so many other things) and have its own airline.

We then decided to leave the airport and as I had just over two hours to spare before last check in. We headed for Ikeja and a Chinese restaurant called Jades. As I walked in I was taken aback by the grandeur of the place, there were huge chandeliers beautiful Chinese décor, ornamental gardens, this has been replicated in three locations. They were very busy the car park was full; there certainly is a call for such things in this area.

After finishing the lovely meal we headed to visit Gloria and say farewell. This took us down Allen Ave, this reputedly is one of the dearest roads in Ikeja, it’s said that many of the houses were bought by drug dealers, who paid over the top prices causing them to be over inflated. They then tried to clean up the area from drugs but the high prices remained; now this has become the ‘red light’ district, with lots of young girls walking the streets at night.

As we passed into a gated area where Gloria lived the security man stood guard with a bow and arrow as his weapon of choice, to deter any would be criminal. I said my goodbyes to Gloria, along with some prayers to commit this whole journey back to God and then left for the airport. A policeman went to stop us hoping for a dash, but Femi refused to stop and get into the conversation, he commented and said what is he going to do…shoot us? At this I ducked and we both laughed, at the fact that acted so quickly!

At the airport Femi dropped me a departure entrance a quick hug and before any tears (from Femi…not me of course!). Perfect timing, I walked through the passport control found my gate and waited to board. As the gate opened we walked through ‘the tunnel of darkness’, the lights had gone out in the boarding tunnel, with a few clipped ankles we boarded the plane (a fitting end to my trip, NEPA down). The plane lifting higher off the ground Lagos below becoming ever more distant, some areas with lights others in almost darkness. I say Good bye, to friends, to chaos, to a vibrant state and pray that I will return.

I feel blessed to have been privileged to have spent a month with such wonderful people, to have experienced things that many will never see or choose to see. I pray that my trip has touched people and that from this small seed big things will grow. I know that Nigeria is a huge and complicated country with many issues, health and poverty is just a small part of those issues. I know that I cannot change things, but I also know that God can. He uses people, people that themselves may not feel qualified or equipped for the task (like me, like Femi, like you!), but when you walk in faith and trust and rely on Him things happen.

Penultimate day - Friday 5th

2009-06-05T15:03:00.000-07:00

Well this is my penultimate day in Mafoluku, Lagos. I had planned to meet a facebook friend Eniola at the centre today at 10.00. The hotel manager kindly gave me a lift in his own car to the junction and as excited as a child I finally get to cross the road alone! Guess what, I made it safely!

When I got to the centre Eniola and her daughter Hazel were waiting for me. We sat and chatted for a while about my trip and the experiences I have had. They then suggested we went and ate locally (they do like to feed me here) as Eniola hadn’t got her car as she had hoped. We went to a Tetrazzinie and although I said I didn’t want much I some how ended up being the only one eating a huge fish and rice. Typically here people are so kind and persistent, It's easier and politer to acccept. It was so nice to meet her in person; I would have been disappointed to have gone home without the opportunity to do so.

We returned to the centre where the lovely Mr Dee took me up stairs and presented me with a hat that was made in Abuja and some beautiful material printed in his home state of Abeokuta in Lagos. As if that wasn’t kind enough he called the tailor and commissioned him to make me a Buba a typical African outfit for me.

We then went downstairs and all the staff had come to a farewell party for me, everyone in turn stood up and said some lovely things. I then had to get up and speak to them about my trip the enjoyment it has bought me and the friends I have been blessed to have made. They then presented me with a card that they had all signed and wrote some lovely words in. They went and found a photographer as they all wanted photos with me.

Eniola then presented me with even more beautiful material, yards and yards of it, she suggested I got something made for my husband too (he was very pleased when I told him later). We then proceeded to have sausage rolls (a bit like a fresher Gala, but still dryer than I’m used too) and coke for the party food. I was so overwhelmed by everyone’s kindness, love and generosity. I couldn’t have wished for a nicer send off and I will take away such wonderful memories of today.

When all the fuss had died down, I asked if I could pop along the road to see Funmi and the family, to say goodbye to them. I walked along with young Funmi and Mrs Fashe. We went through the tailors shop front and went along a corridor where each room appeared to house a different family. We went into the small room which contained a double bed and the contents of the family’s belongings. There on the bed was the beautiful baby who had the most gorgeous big brown eyes and a mass of tight curls. Also in came her big sister who always manages to give the nicest smile ever when she sees me. As I was leaving the little girl said in Yoruba ‘I want to go with Oyibo’ everyone laughed and I held her hand and we walked down the road to the centre, her Dad then took her back home and she turned and waved (beautiful!).

A few of the girls and me stood out side and watched the world go pass. Then the men that sit at the entrance to the road (the ones that always greet me when I arrive) and another man suddenly started rowing. It was like watching African Magic (a TV channel that is full of soaps with angry African men on, acting quite badly), lots of raised voices not wanting to give in, as soon as one walked away, they would come back and start again. This went on for half an hour, in the end we went inside whilst they continued.

Back to my hotel, I will miss the wonky taps, the excitement of not knowing how many or how big the towels will be. The thrill of receiving my meal and finding out it’s not what I ordered. The adventure of trying to tell people what I require, in a language that doesn’t appear to be as understood as you would think in an English speaking country (but then again I struggle with Irish, Scottish and Welsh sometimes!).

As I skype home the internet keeps giving up, probably due to the torrential rain and thunder storms that are going on out side. Thankfully I came when they haven’t been too bad. Mr Solomon informs me that July and August they have rain most days. I cant quite get motivated to pack my bags, so I’ve decided to leave it till the morning as nothing has been planned for tomorrow anyway, and it never takes as long to chuck it all in to go home as it does to come. So it’s off to bed for the last time in Nigeria (well at least the last time for this trip!).

Two more sleeps....Thursday 4th

2009-06-04T14:11:00.000-07:00

Another nice lazy start to the day, got up, showered and called Femi for a lift. We went over to the medical centre, today I was expected to give a talk to the staff. I felt a little unsure of what exactly I should focus on but felt confident that it would all fall into place as we went along. I showed Femi the guidelines that I had commenced, and printed them off as guidance to what I was going to say.

Once all the staff had arrived and was ready, we went down stairs and greeted them. Femi discussed the importance of learning and improving on what is already done. How with people like me coming from the UK can add knowledge and suggestions that may be helpful in improving practice.

I started the conversation by congratulating them on all the hard work that they do and by acknowledging how different things are here compared to what I’m used to, with regard to equipment, support, training, not to mention electricity, water etc. I spoke about the type of things that are done in the UK and what and how small changes that can be implemented to here from these. I was keen for it to be a conversation and not a lecture so I encouraged opinions and questions. Most of them were happy to join in and keen to learn about APGARs (a simple tool used to express the condition of a baby at birth). They also wanted to be shown the obstetric wheels, and some guidance books on vaginal examination.

I also showed them the guidelines briefly, explaining how useful having these is. They are not used to having guidelines and I got the impression they thought they were a negative thing. I told them that in the UK we have hundreds of guidelines for every event and we can refer to them to remind us what we need to do. This is so that everyone knows the standards that need to be met, and everyone is doing the same thing, reducing inconsistencies that are evident in the notes I audited. I also stressed that these guidelines can be looked at by them and if there are things that they feel won’t work or need adding, then this can be addressed. I want them to feel part of the process and solution.

I also commented on the fact that I was sure that a lot of what I have written in the guidelines they already did, but as the record keeping is minimal, I can not see the evidence of this. Drawing attention to the importance of writing what you have done and when, so who ever looks at them can see and it’s not just down to memory.

The staff here are all very keen and willing and certainly have the ability to learn. I also told them that we can never say we know enough, as part of being a midwife we have to help train others coming up and also keep up to date with research and change, always reflecting and improving on our practice. After about an hour or so of talking and discussing, we called it a day.

Around 18.00 I decided to make my way home, again on foot. This time Femi asked one of the young assistants to walk with me, Tope who is 19 walked and chatted with me all the way to the hotel. As many of them do here, she wanted to carry my bags, but I always feel it’s not fair to make them carry them when I’m able to so I declined. The roads were busier than on the walk to the centre as the sun was cooling and many people were making their way home. Trucks went past (these often saying load only) full to the brim with people standing. Women at the side of the road preparing for their evening custom, the food cooked often changes. Akara and fried yam is mainly found in the evening and not in the day time.

Back at the hotel, with my happy greeting from everyone I passed, I headed for my room. I skyped home and chatted with everyone there. All of who were well and looking forward to me returning home. Then feeling hungry I called down for the menu as it had been removed from my room. David came up and said there was no chicken, so I just asked for chips as I didn’t fancy any thing available. He suggest I had egg sauce with it, not knowing what I was going to get I agreed to try it (same for most things I order here). It ended up being a curried like scrambled egg with peppers in it and I really enjoyed it.

Walking Wednesday 3rd

2009-06-03T16:54:00.000-07:00

Woke up thinking how can I make today more memorable, nothing was planned, it feels like the trip is ending in an anti-climax. So I thought to my self either I would get on an Okada or at least I would walk to the medical centre, easy enough I thought. I put on my face book status that this was what I was thinking of doing and soon the replies came back. Someone said ‘walk ACCOMPANIED’, and I replied OK I get the message.

Great I could walk along and take a few photos of my daily journey, I rang down to reception to ask if someone was able to chaperone me. At this point I again wondered if I was speaking a foreign language. ‘I would like to walk can someone walk with me please’ I repeated. 5 minutes later the phone rang ‘Madam your driver is ready’, I so nearly said OK and agree to just except the lift, which I often do when I haven’t got what I asked for.

In the end Mr Solomon the hotel manager rang me and said he would come and walk with me. When he eventually arrived he said was I sure I didn’t want him to drive me, I explained how I wanted to walk so I could see more and take photos. So we walked the 30 minutes or so in the baking heat of the by this time midday sun. He pointed out different things on the way, the shopping plaza, factories, what the work being done was, and we just chatted generally. On the way people called out Oylibo and when I turned, they all say welcome, a phase commonly used here. It felt good to be walking and taking in all that I will shortly miss.

He insisted on walking me to the door of the centre, by the time we arrived the sweat was pouring. I think the humidity must be even higher than the UK here as although it’s often reported to be between 30-35 degrees it always feels much hotter. Mr Solomon made his way back, probably on an Okada (which I am still tempted to try). As I entered the centre Femi informed me that there had been a power surge and the electric had shorted and caught alight. The ‘electrician’ was coming back to sort it out (hopefully as he had been paid up front). This also meant no fans, so the sweat continued to pour, with no relief.

We sat and chatted for a while and I expressed my disappointment that the trip to a general hospital had not materialised. Femi although did not feel it was something I needed to do agreed to take me to Ikeja General training hospital. Femi explained the history of the hospital, which had a mixture of very old and new looking buildings.

We entered and were advised to go to the Professor, we entered his room and Femi introduced us and why we were here. He generously gave up his time to speak to us and discussed the problems he faces and the politics behind a lot of these issues. He said that maternal death rate in Lagos was 650 per 100,000. He says that people don’t get antenatal care and that many birth at home or in churches with non qualified people looking after them, the figures are probably higher than this. People are not educated to know better, health education is not very well achieved here.

He then rang his Matron and asked us to be shown around. I had heard people say what to expect, birthing rooms etc. I can’t deny that I was shocked by what I saw. In a small centre like a Mafoluku I expected there to be lack of equipment and poor conditions. This was a teaching hospital, it was at best out of the dark ages. Women in threes in labour rooms, it appeared that little or no pain relief was being used, monitored with pinnards, they said they had sonic aids but I couldn’t see any evidence of them. There was a CTG machine (to monitor the fetal heart) but it wasn’t in use (maybe they were all low risk!). The walls were peeling, the beds were bare and tatty, the rooms were hot, and hygiene didn’t appear to be this big issue it is in the UK, no birthing partners to be seen.

When they are about to deliver they are taken across the corridor to a birthing room. In here was a couch with stirrups and a very old resuscitaire unit. The rooms were ugly, harsh and not clean looking in comparison to what I am used to they looked barbaric. The Midwives I spoken to said that they knew that things were not as they’d like and know they could learn a lot from people in the UK, the matron said they would benefit greatly by doing some kind of exchange with their UK counterparts. This would be a great idea, but what when they return the equipment is so dated and it would have been condemned in the UK.

We were then taken to the ante/postnatal wing; these again were very basic poor conditions. We were told that women that who can not pay or who turn up with out having had antenatal care are put into another area, which was more basic (can’t quite imagine getting more basic). The matrons that I spoke to were all concerned about maternal mortality and I have great respect for them and the work they do in the surrounding that they have to endure. I work in a relatively new hospital, it’s clean and equipment is generally modern and or well maintained. Women generally receive one to one care, there is choice of pain relief, partners can give support, and everything is at hand and no one is given a second class service on matter what they wealth or social standing.

I came away saddened at what women in this area have to endure and others hospitals may be different. Some may be more modern and have better décor and more up-to-date equipment. I would imagine that this isn’t too different to many others, when I’ve taught Doctors how to use a sonic aid because they have never seem one, when a nurse/midwife from another hospital wasn’t even aware what one was. I walked out of this hospital and said to Femi that I had assumed that his centre was basic and not the most cleanest of places, (no water, no sewage etc) but after seeing this teaching Hospital, I felt that the centres standards were certainly no worse than this and in some things better.

In a country that has only five radiotherapy units in it (the whole of Nigeria not just Lagos), Abuja the capital city has only 2 defibulators, Lagos only has three mammogram machines. There are many people dying prematurely due to lack of equipment, drugs etc, immediate medical care (ambulance service) is reportedly almost non-existent The average male lives to be 45 years of age. Health care is a vital need that should be available or accessible by all. Primary health care, health education and screening should be a priority.

This is not a poor country; this is a country that appears to not be managing its finances efficiently. A country that produces oil but doesn’t then refine its oil, it sells it and then purchases it back. This country has fantastic beaches, but where is the tourism? I could go but I won’t! Nigerians deserve better, there is a need for changes, there is a need for Nigerians that have seen the grass is greener to return and sow the seeds of change, to demand better, to expect better and to put in what ever they can to improve and to excel.

Traffic jam Tuesday - 2nd June

2009-06-02T13:06:00.000-07:00

A very early start this morning, Femi texted at 04.50 to make sure I was up (doesn’t he trust me!!). I was picked up by him at 06.00 and we headed for Lekki, Lagos Island to go to the Silverbird studios for another TV interview. This journey can normally be done in about 40 minutes or so, but the morning traffic is so bad with everyone heading for work on the island. We queued in the chaotic morning ‘rush hour’ to get onto the bridge and at every junction leading off the bridge until we met our exit.

Whilst driving along, Femi gave me my present from the wedding that we went to on Friday. Here it’s traditional to give the guests presents, it amazed me once more how generous people are. Their was a printed bag, a small printed hand towel and toothpick holder (everyone uses toothpicks all the time here due to the toughness of most meats they always get in between your teeth), all these had Angela and Damola’s names wedding date etc printed on them. Also in the bag was a gas ring lighter, a small flask and a bible. Certainly not something we would do or expect in England.

Eventually as we arrived at the Bar beach area of Lagos, we were thankfully going against the flow of traffic as we headed out of town towards Lekki. The journey took us over 2 hours, when we arrived at the studio we were taken up and introduced to Roli and Patrick Doyle. Then we were taken to the studio, we waited for the current presenter to finish her slot which over ran. When we did get on air we ended up with approximately 5 minutes, Femi managed to quickly get over his email, website and phone number (so I guess it wasn’t a complete waste of time?). Personally I’d have rather had a longer sleep!

When we returned to the car there were several missed calls from people that had been watching the show and interested in finding out more. Time as always will tell what will come from these. The first radio show we did, Femi received a call from a carpenter who said he had no money but could offer his trade for free. This was followed up and he lived in the area where the new clinic is being built, Alagbado and is potentially going to be offered work. Another call from a trained nurse, maybe leading to her coming into the centres and continuing with training, ensuring that issues that have been highlighted are addressed and improvements are continuous.

We headed for the Silverbird Galleria, where Femi had a couple of meetings. This also meant the opportunity to eat something non-Nigerian, sandwiches and chips and a double espresso which was enjoyable. Whilst Femi got on with his meetings, I sat and went through the guidelines I am in the process of producing. Whilst listening to Barry White repeatedly on a loop! About an hour or more passed, Femi then purchased me an hour’s internet, as I was obviously looking like I was losing the will to live. That helped, within 2 minutes of logging on the internet dropped and the frustration continued as well as the boredom!

Femi also had a meeting with Emilia, who works in media, production and broadcasting. She came across as a very intelligent young lady that certainly knew her trade. Listening to her she had her opinions and was very straight forward with getting them across. She has lots of contacts and was able to give help and advice on many of Femi’s ideas. Emilia spent the next couple of hours with us.

We then went to see another acquaintance of Femi’s Mark Eddo, someone he met in England that worked in the media (for ITN in the UK I believe) and had cut a DVD on Lagos and its potential future (Lagos Africa’s Modern Megacity), which featured Dr Olaleye and Baby Mohammed at the Mafoluku clinic. We watched it and the quality was excellent far more superior to anything that I have seen on the Tele since being here. Mark was a very well spoken and charming man and had a lovely clear English accent. After leaving here we proceeded to sit in more traffic and it was as difficult to get off the island as it was to get on it this morning.

Returning to my hotel Femi requested hot water for me so I was able to make a cup of coffee, as my last attempt to get some wasn’t very successful. David one of the staff brought it up for me, a nice young boy that aspires to one day come to England. He lost his Mother when he was young and like many here hasn’t had the best start in life. Minimal schooling and now minimal wages, but he is hopeful. I promised that I would keep in touch and when he comes to the UK I will show him around.

My final week - Monday 1st June

2009-06-01T13:28:00.000-07:00

After grappling with my conscience about my Hilton stay and after a most pleasant nights sleep only being awoken (at 06.00!) by an encouraging text from the lovely Mr Dee, I decided to be even more extravagant with breakfast in my room. The excitement of All Bran with proper milk (not powdered as I have only known since being here) and brown bread was too much for me to resist (this is what a month in Naija has brought me to!!!). This with hot filter coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, ham (with a couple of olives on the side!), jam, yogurt and fruit platter I was stuffed and had the leave some. A treat that I really enjoyed after not having breakfasts since the beginning of my stay.

I can hardly believe that it’s June the first and in a few days time I will be heading home, back to my normality and all this, both the grandeur and the poverty will seem a million miles away. This morning though, is time to pack and head back to Mafoluku, Lagos and to leave this other side to Nigeria behind. I headed down to check out and to wait for Femi and Christa to pick me up. I went to use the toilets down in the reception and was taken aback that in the Hilton’s loos they had run out of toilet roll and then when I washed my hands there were no hand towels either! Certainly not the standard you expect or pay for, in a Hilton anywhere in the world.

I was picked up by Christa and Femi and we headed to the airport to catch the 11.30 flight. The roads (although still nothing like Mafoluku) were much busier than at the weekend and the familiar beeping of horns became more apparent and familiar. As we drove past the many huge and grand buildings, some being very impressive while others obviously built in the 1970’s looked some what dated in design, Christa pointed out what they all were. With these buildings obviously come influence and money and powerful people, which probably has a lot to do with the difference that has been achieved in Abuja.

As we headed along the fast running two lane road which leads to the airport, it was noticeable that work of some kind was in progress. Christa explained how they [the government] are spending a reported $1 billion dollars to widen the road, knocking down many trees on the avenue like road. For what purpose I ask, the road very rarely (according to Christa) has congestion. The existing road lighting apparently never works, maybe this should have money spent on this, or affordable housing for those along that route that are not living in adequate dwellings. Maybe this would be better spent on health, it was commented at the weekend that there were only two defibrillators in Abuja (one of those at the Hilton, so I would have been ok at least for two days). These are commonplace in the UK even Tesco are said to have them!

Nigeria, so many Nigerians have commented is run by many (hopefully and I am sure not all) corrupt people and things are often agreed depending on the size of the bribe and money that can be made from it. This is how a lot of contracts are won and why things are often not done. This I guess is at the heart of the countries problems. If this could be eradicated then things would be improved for genuine reasons and for the love of the country and not for the love of money.

This corruption is so rife, it can be seen by every police man that ‘keeps order’ everyone that is pulled over hands over a dash (bribe, money) and goes on his way, The law is not upheld but the police are on a fantastic earner, chaos continues and it is excepted and expected and nothing changes. This continues up the hierarchy of people in this country and this is probably the main cause of the problems, but how does this stop? Many will not admit its happening; I imagine many Nigerians reading this will not want to admit this is the huge problem that it is. My guess is (for what my opinion is worth!) until this is controlled in some way, shape or form, much of the unfair inequalities that people just live with because ‘that’s how it is here’ will continue.

We landed in Lagos and headed back to my hotel and the familiar sights and sounds of the chaos. Okadas dodging around us and yellow taxis’ many looking like their not fit enough to last the journey fill every gap. As I pull up in my hotel I am greeted by smiles and welcomes, more genuine than that at the Hilton, they know me here and many I know by name. Although I loved Abuja and everyone that I met that made the weekend special was great, I also have no regrets about coming back. People here are equally as generous and kind at heart, just that these people haven’t got the money, but their kindness is no less appreciated.

On return the internet was working well, thankfully so I was able to catch up online. Shortly NEPA was down, and the generator needed resting and refuelling. So rather than sitting in a dull room, I took my place outside, watching everyone going about their chores and greeting all that passed. I also watched a female lizard run to and fro, as always no one else took a blind bit of notice of her. Just as I was about to go in the heavens opened as I looked across at the security man he gestured me to wait and found a big umbrella and walked me the 10 meters to the entrance.

Speaking of kindness, I asked one of the men who is always pleasant, as I walked in if he knew where I could get Akara balls from. He said they won’t be cooking it till gone six, but that he would run out and get it for me. Just after six he came up to knock and asked how many I wanted, I gave him some money and said get himself some if he wanted. When he returned with it, he had even gone and got a plate to put it on and not left it in the newspaper everything here comes wrapped in. This is so typical of the kindness so many Nigerians have shown me.

Final Sunday in Naija - 31st

2009-06-01T05:49:00.001-07:00

My last Sunday in Nigeria, I woke early after a not very sleep-full night, surprisingly so as this was the most comfortable bed I have slept in on my trip and the air con was silent. In part I was kept awake because I was struggling with the fact that I had paid so much for such opulence with staying in the Hilton. When I had left such poverty and the thought of what I could have done with the money that I’d spent on two nights. I tried to balance this feeling by weighing it up against how much this trip has actually cost me and after giving a month of my time here, is it wrong to be extravagant for a weekend?

We were to be at church for around 08.00, not an easy task when you have had an enjoyable late night. We left our hotel about 08.30 in the beautiful sunshine of Abuja. This service was at another Salem church (the same group as we visited last week), this like my own church in Dartford (Dartford community church) is not housed in its own building, and it is a new church plant and has been here for around a year. The congregation was a similar size to back home roughly 100-150. The service was very good and enjoyable, I knew a couple of the worship songs and they were at a speed I was used to. I even managed to keep up with most of the preach, either it was clearer or my ear in tuning in at last.

After the service we spoke to Joyce an acquaintance of Femi’s, who is also the Archbishops daughter. We were introduced to the Archbishop Sam Amaga who was a charming man and made us feel very welcomed; he has planted several churches and was in even in Lewisham, London for a while. We then met his wife who was delightful and also very warm, the usual photo session commenced and then we made our way back to the hotel.

Both going to church and coming out it was very noticeable that there were far less people walking about than you would see in Lagos heading for church. This is probably in part because there are noticeably fewer people here anyway. There is not the crammed full on feeling here with hundreds of people going about their business. Everything is more spaced out so many people drive or get green taxis (the small buses and taxis are not yellow here).

A few hours later we were picked up by Joyce and taken to their very luxurious home a couple of miles away. As we drove up the security man opened the gates and we parked under carports to avoid the sun. A spread of food had been prepared for us by the cook and freshly squeezed juice which was delicious. The house was large and very grand but there was also a warm feeling of love and it was certainly a family home and we were made to feel welcome.

Their hospitality was so generous; Joyce and Kella her younger sister decided that we needed ice cream and a film. They took us to into the local town to an ice cream parlour and we all had proper scooped ice cream which seemed such a treat. We then went to a small shopping mall had a walk around the shops and then went to catch a movie ‘Night at the museum 2’. The cinema chairs left a little to be desired as they rocked when we sat in them (just to remind me that this is still Naija). So much talking and laughing, two lovely girls a credit to their loving family, such a blessed afternoon and such great company!

They dropped us back at the hotel and we waited for Femi’s friend to arrive. His friend had hoped to host our stay but unfortunately the weekend we were able to do this trip, she had been out of town. When she arrived, she drove us down the road as Femi wanted me to try Suya another Nigerian dish cooked at the road side on a BBQ. Beef thinly sliced and peppered, there was also Gizzard (sort of like kidney) which I also had. I took these back to my room, which stunk it out. I ended up putting the rubbish in the bin in the corridor to avoid my room smelling in the morning (not sure if you meant to do that at the Hilton? But hey paid enough for the privilege!).

My overall feeling on Abuja is I loved my weekend here (short as it was). I feel it’s the sort of place that I could bring family to without them feeling so far removed from their comforts in the UK. It’s not got the shock factor that Lagos has when first seen. I am sure the problems with NEPA is as bad here as anywhere in Nigeria, which being in the Hilton is one thing you never notice, they have that well and truly covered. The golf course I understand is one of the best in the country. I would feel comfortable driving around here, where Lagos is certainly more challenging. I like the area and would hope to one day return, but I also feel Lagos is where I’m meant to be at this point.

Sorry for delay....Saturday 30th

2009-06-01T05:45:00.000-07:00

It’s the weekend and time to chill out and have some fun. We have decided that today we would take an internal flight to Abuja. This is partly to get another view of Nigeria and partly to have some fun.

The last Saturday of the month everyone (at least in Lagos) between 07.00 and 10.00 has to tidy and maintain there surroundings as its ‘sanitation day’. This in turn means nothing much happens until after this time and then everyone hits the road (there wasn’t a noticeable difference in the surrounding; I guess most use it as a lay in!). This gave me time to pack up my belongings as I was checking out of my hotel until Monday.

Femi picked me up at the hotel, and the Manager Mr Solomon very kindly allowed me to store my luggage in his office. Mr Solomon is a lovely man and goes out of his way to help make my stay comfortable when ever able. We left for the airport unfortunately we missed the flight that we were hoping to catch, as it was boarding as we arrived (this flight was rarely on time). We then purchased tickets for Virgin Nigeria, this flight true to form was not running on time. This gave me time to grab a lovely Danish pastry and a coffee, the first I’ve had since arriving in Nigeria (those that know me well know how fussy I am with my addiction for a strong black filter and a ‘hot hit’).

Without too long a delay we boarded our plane, soon after receiving our complimentary cake and drink we were descending into Abuja international Airport (a flight of about an hour). As I watched out of the window the terrain was much greener and rural than that we had left, also more mountainous. This surprised me as I was expecting it to be very built up, but the city itself was about a 30 minute drive away. Departure was stress free we just walked off the plane, picked up luggage from the only conveyor belt and walked out of the building briefly showing the luggage label to a man on the way.

Femi’s cousin had kindly picked us up and drove us into Abuja. This had a very different feel to it, as we travelled on well made roads, passing small mountain ranges (granite hills I believe) and road side sellers, which were much fewer in number than seen in Lagos. As we entered the town there was no rumble, no derelict building, no Okadas and no potholes. There were green verges, tree lined roads beautiful buildings and space, a complete contrast to even the better areas that I have seen of Lagos.

As will drove up to the Hilton (this is where we had decided to stay) a huge building of about thirteen floors (10 accomadation), with its palm tree lined entrance, it felt like another world. As we entered the grand foyer, it certainly was another world (one that I am certainly not used to). As I handed over the money for my two night stay I thought I must be mad (for what I’ve paid for 2 nights paid for 6 at Sena). Then as I entered my room the quality was a far cry from that of the Sena hotel. Huge mirrored doors to the bathroom, soft comfortable bed, it just spoke luxury. The negative (some would say greedy side) is that very little is included in this price, no internet, no drinking water, they kindly fill a kettle and give you two complimentary tea bags and coffee sachets and the usual toiletries.

Unpacked and then we headed for pool side with netbook and coffee, it’s the place to be. A quick wash and change and then we were off to the IBB golf course. A friend of Femi’s, Faridah Wada, is the ladies captain, and she invited us along to the prize giving dinner for the tournament that had been played earlier today. This certainly felt like a different class of place and entertainment. The band played some high-life and there was plenty of dancing going on and of course we joined in. The food was great, goat pepper soup with meat in not just fat, and beef stroganoff with chewable meat, such a treat. The lady captain offered us a lift back to the Hilton but it was still early (she understandably was tired as she had been in the sun playing golf all day).

As we got back to the Hilton we decided to go into the Captains bar, to taste the entertainment and soak up a little of the atmosphere. The music was varied more high-life and plenty of reggae, plus others too. After a couple of drinks, (those that know me won’t be too surprised) I had to get up and into the groove! They tend to pick on members of the audience to get up and strut their stuff and (to Femi’s surprise I think) I did. He was keen to retire to his room (probably out of sheer embarrassment) but I had found a second wind and was not prepared to give in that easily.

All I can say at this point, on first impressions, is that Nigeria can certainly get it very right; Abuja is a fine example of that. It only became the capital in 1991. I’m sure as with any place it has its short falls, its deprived areas. On first impressions, this feels more polished, the bits that are right are very right not just money in the midst of chaos as everywhere I’ve seen in Lagos. No, it’s not that I am staying in luxury and am blinded to what is around me. In Lagos we went to the Pink Ball in a luxurious part of town, just along from the Hilton and more expensive hotels, but there was still mess, potholes and chaos. So why does it appear they got more right here, yet they haven’t managed to replicate it in Lagos?

The end of another week! Friday 29th

2009-05-29T13:19:00.001-07:00

Today in Nigeria is a bank holiday, Democracy day and its ten years since Nigeria became a democratic state. For me, today I was honoured to have been invited to a wedding this was the lovely Gloria’s sisters, Angela and her partner Damola.

I was picked up after dressing in my tailor made top, made from a typical Nigerian style print. Femi was adorned in the same print with matching trousers (very smart too!). We were going to an area that was new to me, an area called Festac. Femi explained how 30 years ago that the Naija government built this huge housing estate with houses, flats etc. Basically (excuse me if I get some of this wrong) they held a grand festival and housed many people from many nations in these properties.

When the party had finished the buildings were empty and so they decided to hold a sort of lottery and who ever won, got the property free of charge! So thousands of people received housing for the cost of the ‘ticket’. Amazing! The only sad thing about this is although these people benefited from this hugely, it could have been thought through maybe and if people had received low cost housing this money could have been ploughed back into making more and many more may have benefited.

As we made our way towards Festac we took another road that I had not been along before, this appeared to be truck world. For miles along there loads and loads of trucks and here they are the huge American style ones. There were also the usual large potholes that hadn’t yet been repairs some taking up half the road. We passed a man with a goat hung around his neck, obviously about to have dinner, maybe goat pepper soup!

We arrived at Festac It looked very different from any other places we have visited, many more flats or tenant type buildings, although plenty of these were in need of painting and were scruffy much of the area was generally tidier and less derelict than many we had been to. Glorias father I believe was one of these ‘lucky winners’ and live in a kind of cul-de-sac, each road had a number rather than a name. This was a tidy road and in the better end of town, with what appeared quite big houses.

Today for the wedding there were canopies outside and inside the garden. The first part of the wedding which is the traditional part was to take place at the house. It was bright and colourful, the brides family and friends tended to wear beige, gold and browns while the grooms side wore turquoise blue. Everyone looked stunning in their traditional clothing and the ladies with their spectacular head ties.

The ceremony is quite long with lots of acts, starting with the groom lying on the floor begging the bride’s parents to let him marry their daughter. After a while they announce the bride is coming out but the first two times it is a fake bride and the groom has to pay the women to take her away. Eventually the bride comes out and meets him and he pays to take her. Lots of prayers are said and lots of money changes hands. At one point a bowl of Kola nuts is passed around, this is a stimulant that is chewed and swallowed, I tried it but it was so bitter I can’t say I enjoyed it .The groom offers her gifts such as food, yam sometimes a goat and a bible, the bride always takes the bible.

We then eat pounded yam that I watched being pounded earlier, cat fish, beef or goat and a spinach type dish that was all nice. Once that was eaten we made our way to the church for the blessing and the white wedding. This was at the Church of the Pentecost a large slightly more traditional church than the others I’ve been to here, with pews and an organ. I was asked to cover my head in a scarf as all women were expected to (know I should have got a head tie to wear!).

In part the service was similar to what we would be used to, hymns, prayers etc, but the bride and groom do plenty of dancing which is great fun to see. Then there was an offering the whole church (there must have been at least 200 or more) danced down the aisle and placed money in the big bowl and then singing and dancing went back up the side to their seats. This was so cool! Such fun and everyone was so happy and enjoyed it. Then the bride and groom went with collection bags up and down the aisle dancing, singing and collecting for the women’s association.

This was then followed by the reception which was held in a hall down the road. It was crammed with people, not the 50 to the sit down we do. It was who ever turns up gets fed and is welcomed. A comedian hosted the evening, Femi found him very funny, but unfortunately these jokes were wasted on me as I only caught the odd word. Again we ate this time Moi moi, jollof and fried rice and a piece of chicken. Drinks were flowing for everyone, the generosity at these weddings are amazing. The couple then cut the cake and again tradition is that the bride has to feed some to her husband and then she gives him wine. They don’t tend to give gifts to the couple but they get the couple up dancing (Nigerians certainly can move!) and they through money at them and place it on there foreheads (sweep, I believe it was called).

This was a fantastic day and it felt a real privilege to have been allowed and accepted to be part of it. I wish Angela and Demola a very happy and fulfilling life together and long may they be blessed. This will be one of my lasting memories of Nigeria (of which there is many).

Time flies....Thursday 28th

2009-05-28T23:42:00.001-07:00

Today we had an appointment at Radio Nigeria, in Ikoyi, Lagos. This wasn’t the early start of the previous shows, so no rush to get up. I was picked up by Femi at around 11.00, also in the car was Ken, an acquaintance of Femi’s that worked at the station. Ken said he knew of me and when I asked how, he said he ad seen me at church the first week I came.

We travelled across the 3rd Mainland bridge which when we checked on the milometer in the car was over 10 km in length (I believe one of if not the largest bridge in Africa). On our right as we drove across (and driving is on the right here) is where the stilted houses are and the fishermen were out in there boats catching the local (fat) fish. Also we can see a University as we get to Lagos Island and a large saw mill can also be seen below.

As we pulled off the main road to go to Ikoyi we went through a market which was heaving with people all going about there business, in the usual hustle and bustle way. Every where you look are Okada, Tuk-tuks, taxis, buses and the average driver all juggling and aiming for what is their spot on the road. No rules of the road, you can under or over take, pull out at traffic to make them give way to you, pull over any where you fancy, turn any where, park anywhere, you have the right of way at all times. This is driving in Lagos.

We eventually arrive at Radio Nigeria, which has large premises, with several buildings. We are taken up to the office of Funke Treasure Durodola the broadcaster that we will be interviewed by. As we sit and chat she gets quite excited about the River State Medical Mission, that Femi organized in April this year. This was a project that Femi orchestrated to bring multi-skilled Nigerians (Doctors, Midwives, Nurses etc) working abroad to provide a week of free medical consultation, treatment and operations, in six medical centers in six days, Around 800 people were seen and over 100 operations were performed.

This program that we were doing unlike the others was not going to be live. It’s a program called Nigerian pride and it is aired across Nigeria on Tuesdays at 17.30. It will also be linked to their website http://www.radionigeria.net/. Funke decided to do the interview as two separate shows, the first meeting Femi and discussing River State and how Femi has come back to his home land. The second, was both of us, discussing my involvement with the charity and how things can be improved and to encourage others to give time, skills or money to help such a venture. We were interviewed for about an hour in total so it could be cut into the two shows.

Whilst there we were also asked if we could be interviewed by another broadcaster Fabian Anawo, who does a news type program and he wanted to speak to us. As he wasn’t quite ready we popped into the staff canteen to grab a drink and a bite to eat. This is when you think to yourself, I bet the canteen at Radio one isn’t as tatty and shabby as this. As Femi pointed out its about expectations, in England as in many countries we expect and demand certain standards, here they are used to the way things are and often know no different, so put up with things as they are.

While there we enjoyed Jollof rice with fish (mackerel I think) and sauce, with plantain (I say we, but I didn’t want anything but Femi who now appears to know me too well got enough for 2 and an extra spoon, so I tucked in to his dinner!). He also picked up Puff puff for me to try, this turned out to be like small donuts that are freshly made and not too sweet, I liked these too!

After lunch we went back into the studio and chatted with Fabian about the issues that could be improved about Nigerian health care. What I was doing specifically, how this small thing can help, what has been my approach and how will I enforce changes. This interviewer was much more interrogative then the others, but I feel we got our point and our passion across. Remaining positive that Nigeria has got potential and there is certainly hope for its future especially if enough people make these small drops eventually change will be made and seen.

By the time we had finished here it was getting on to about 16.00 and we new the traffic would soon start to increase. So we headed off home. We called into the medical centre to see if my top had been made for the wedding tomorrow. Before leaving I picked up some Piriton as I have been bitten a lot suddenly and my arms were driving me mad with itching. My top wasn’t ready so we headed back to my hotel via the money man at the airport, who now says he likes me (think he just likes my money!). This old man on his Vespa has become quite familiar to me now as I wave at him through the crowd to grab his attention. I returned to my hotel and later that evening Funmi (one of the staff at the center) came over on an Okada to bring my top that was finally finish and fitted perfectly.

Wednesday 27th already!

2009-05-27T14:38:00.000-07:00

Today had another early start, this morning we had to return to Ketu, this time to appear on a morning TV show, as a result of yesterdays radio show. I nervously got ready and I felt slightly more anticipation about this as live TV is less forgiving than a radio show. Femi picked me up at about 07.30, and on the drive to Ketu we discussed the points that we wanted to try and get across, including the need for donations to sustain the charity and to help it grow.

When we arrived we were greeted by the make-up artist, who proceeded to powder our faces ready for the studio lighting (even Femi benefited from a touch of make up!). It is children’s day here in Nigeria and we were linked to this theme. The presenter welcomed us and asked many questions, about my trip, how I was finding Nigeria, what are then main issues I have noticed regarding health, and how could the government improve things in Nigeria. To this last question I felt I had to reply with the fact that I am not a politician and do not know enough about these issues to answer and I added that I would hope to come back to the country so thought it best not to get on my soap box, potentially up setting the government.

Our slot went on for about 20mins and in this time Femi and I was able to get across quiet a bit of information with regards to Wish for Africa and the future plans for Optimal Medical Centres. We were able to mention certain things that would make an immediate difference such as a portable scanner, generators, descent medical supplies/equipment, text books, skilled people to come and share there knowledge and train staff. I pointed out that many people can do something. If I am capable of doing this with odds stacked against me such as newly qualified, work commitments, family, white, female etc then others could too, each offering what ever gift the have.

After this we headed again to the clinic in Ketu, today was antenatal clinic, so I went in with Dr Yussuf to observe and question practices. I also give them a sonic aid to be used within this clinic and demonstrated its use. It soon became apparent how much they don’t do, that we do in the Uk, and the primary reason was cost that would have to be passed on to the patient. In this and other deprived areas people just can’t afford the additional cost of things that are routinely done back home. Scans are rarely done unless true indication (no dating or anomaly scans). Blood is tested for HIV and Hep B but if they don’t routinely do full blood counts. At this clinic routine urine testing with a dip stick is not done again due to increasing the cost. Although folic acid and iron is given to all, assuming that most have poor diets and will require it. From the world health organisations recommendation all women receive prophylactic malaria which payment for medication is subsidised.

I was able to have an immediate influence on encouraging them to measure the fundal height (routinely women are measured from top of there pubic bone to where the top of the womb is felt roughly weeks = centimetres, so if you were 28weeks you’d measure 28cms +/- 2/3cms). They just do a visual inspection and use fingers which is a good skill to keep but it’s simple enough to do both and allows for accuracy in detecting too much or too little growth.

The women also liked the fact that they could also hear the heat beat when we used the sonic aids. One woman who had three previous miscarriages possibly due to her being Rh neg (blood group) and not receiving anti D in her first pregnancy (something that helps your body stop building up antibodies and potentially causing problems with future pregnancies). When I found the heart beat that although she was about 32 weeks pregnant she had not heard before, she gave a huge smile and tears came to her eyes. Something else fairly simple that we take for grated in the UK.

Back to the Anti D issue, this is something that is offered to all women that have a negative blood group in the UK, during their pregnancy and if the baby is a positive blood group they will be given it again after delivery. If this woman had wanted it here, she enquired to the cost at the pharmacist and it was between 10-12,000 naira (about £40-45). An average weekly wage in this area is probably about £10! The minimum wage here is 5000 naira a month (£20) but this as with most things is not well enforced.

This woman’s case also lead us into discussion on her delivery, she had previously had a caesarean section but (probably due to cost again) was keen to have a normal delivery. We spoke about how she would have to be watched (I hesitate to say monitored!) and not be allowed too long a labour this time. This allowed me to point out the lack of consistency in their paperwork with regards to the recording of times when things occur and the potential indications for these omissions. Dr Yussuf was very receptive of my comments and suggestions, he was also happy to show his staff how to measure women and how to use the sonic aid etc.

My evening ended in the restaurant of my hotel, a nice quiet meal I thought. Well Manchester United v Barcelona on the tele and a room full of very excited men. All shouting for Man Utd and of course as an avid fan myself I couldn’t but join in! Disappointed by the score I headed up to my room. I received a text from Michelle, our mid week church cell group were meeting at hers. This meant only one thing skype cell, which was great as friends from China are heading back this week and another friend is going to Russia for a week so a great opportunity to pray and be part of home. Thanks all x.

A huge THANK YOU!!!

2009-05-26T13:43:00.001-07:00

I would like to say a huge thank you to all that have kindly donated money for me to spend on my trip. Because of the generosity of so many friends in the UK and to ChiChi Dike in the USA, it was possible for me to bless the Adogoke family.

The Adogoke family recently had a beautiful baby girl by caesarean section here at Optimal Medical Centre Mafoluku. The cost of this treatment although minimal by UK/USA standards and even Nigerian standards, for the family it would have taken a long time to complete the payment. This has been a real blessing for them and a weight lifted.

This week I also opened the boxes of donated goods and goods purchased with donated money that I had shipped over from the UK. Shipping itself as I discovered is a costly procedure. Thanks to Oando freight services, which kindly collected and packaged for free and reduced the price per kilo the cost was also covered by donated money.

As we unpacked all the clothes, toys, blankets, pens, medical equipment, everyone here was amazed at the generosity that had been shown. Plans are being made to have a children’s party to give the children’s clothes and toys out.

Also donated were 3 sonic aids from dopplerhire.co.uk a company from Wales that just so kindly took on the spirit of the cause from a chance email I sent them. These have been very useful and very well received here.

All this has only been made possible because so many of you cared enough to give money or items and I can truly say from seeing the faces of people here, it has made a big difference.

So from Me Jo Watts, Dr Femi Olaleye, the staff and many people in Lagos who have or will benefit in some way by your actions THANK YOU!

It's Tuesday 26th here at Radio Continental 102.3fm!

2009-05-26T13:38:00.000-07:00

An early start this morning, well at least for me, Femi was meant to pick me up by 07.30. It was his turn to be late and struggle to get up (at least it’s not just me). We were heading to Ketu to appear on the morning breakfast show of Mr Femi Sowoolu, at Radio Continental 102.3fm. I was slightly nervous as I’m not one for public speaking (no really I’m not!). As we arrived Femi Sowoolu was outside to meet us, he recognised me from facebook (and maybe due to the fact I was the only white woman in the car park). Femi had seen the ‘event’ on facebook (for those not on facebook an event is a way of advertising, something that you are doing or involved in, this was ‘Watts going to Nigeria’) and had contacted me to invite me onto his show.

We received a warm welcome and was shown inside to a board room, and waited to be called for our slot in the programme. Someone came and got us and we headed towards the studio, we sat down and mikes were adjusted and we got straight into business. Femi was very kind and gentle with me and welcomed me to Nigeria and gave an introduction to who I was and why I’m here. He went on to ask if I was enjoying my stay, had I been worried or nervous about my trip, if my family had concerns, what did I think of the people, what did I think about the state of health here etc. He then spoke about the charity and about how it came about with Dr Femi. Who was obviously able to go into more detailed answered than me about the Wish for Africa charity.

We then had several callers asking questions and all being very generous with their praise towards us. The callers were thankfully answered by Dr Femi with the odd grunt of agreement from me. Someone asked how they could contact wish for Africa so Femi gave his mobile number, web site and email details. By the time the show was over and we had got into the car, there were already several missed calls.

This broad casting company is still fairly new but also does TV as well as radio, this is something that Femi had hoped to get into. He had previously had a show on a Nigerian channel in London and did a Doctors chat programme, inviting people along to talk about issues and current events etc. It was left that we may be invited back for a TV slot, but also seemed promising for the future and Femi’s plans. After our ‘five minutes of fame’ we headed back to the reality of why we are here, the clinic in Ketu.

Unfortunately the doctor was not there as it was a quiet day but we spoke to the staff and I pick out three sets of notes to audit. These notes as with the ones from Mafoluku were not up the UK standards and the problems I could see were similar in both areas. I made a few notes and am in the process of writing some guidelines for them to adhere to, to help improve there practice. This is not an easy or pleasant task as I don’t enjoy being negative about what people do. The issue is there is not a huge amount to be positive about, but too much change at once will not go down well, so I have to be choosy on what changes I ask them to make and at what pace new practices are encouraged.

Whilst we were there a couple of patients came in to see the Doctor, as he wasn’t there Dr Femi saw them as to not waste their journey. I sat in on the consultation and was even asked for my opinions (I think they thought that I was a Doctor too! even though I had been introduced as a midwife from the UK). One of the problems with note keeping became apparent in these general practise notes (these were not obstetric patients), highlighting to general bad practice of not recording details efficiently. This didn’t lead to any serious problem, but this patient had to be asked to return when the resident GP was there, assuming he would be able to recall from memory the omitted details.

The problem in part is due to the fact, you often don’t know you don’t know something until you’re shown it or taught it. As a student some mentors would get annoyed with you if you didn’t do or write certain things, I would stand confused at why they would expect me to realise things that were alien to me, that I hadn’t been shown. This is the same sort of thing on a larger scale. If no one has pointed out the importance of doing something or the possible consequences of omitting information, why would they know? If things are not audited or poor outcomes are not investigated and lessons learned from them, or they have just been ‘lucky’ and had no repercussions, why should they feel practice needs alteration?

These are just a few of the issues that I need wisdom on how to approach, so if anyone reading this wishes to pray for specific things please add this to your pray list!

Week 3 - Monday 25th

2009-05-25T14:47:00.000-07:00

Thunder storms and heavy rain over night, with this came more power cuts meaning the air con would keep going off and the heat would rise. So another disturbed sleep, I decided to get up assuming it was around 8-9 and looked at my phone to see it was 10.45! I was meant to be up and out between 10 and 11….oh well!

I tried to skype home as promised before I had left this morning, but no sooner had I got through, NEPA (electric supplier) went down again, no electric, no internet, no skype! I tried to send a text to relay the news and no phone use either, but there is no point in getting frustrated as this is what it’s like here every day.

I made my way over to the medical centre the pot holes in the roads this morning were full of water after last nights rain. Huge puddles waiting for the sun to come and dry them up. It was still overcast and grey with this tends to come a bit of wind so it feels slightly cooler.
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When I got to the centre I helped the girls open the second of the large boxes shipped over from the UK with donated goods in. We sorted them into toys, child, adult clothes etc had the photo shot and put them into bags. Everyone was amazed and happy with the amount of things that had kindly been donated or purchased with donated money. A couple of teddies were selected form Fumni’s new baby and little girl and a toy was also given to one of the nurses for her little girl who is 4.

Suddenly I realised that a few items were missing, that had been unpacked on Saturday. Everyone began to search for them, but they could not be found. It was thought that someone had taken them, but I couldn’t believe any of the staff would have done that. I felt terrible that I brought items and from this we were standing accusing someone of stealing. I prayed that they would turn up and the negative feeling would be relieved. One of the nurses called in to say she had taken them home for safe keeping after we had gone out on Saturday as she didn’t like to leave them around in case some one took them. Relief was felt all around to know that they had not been stolen after all.

Later that afternoon the staff came and found me, as they thought I might be bored. I went downstairs and they gave me lessons in Yoruba, as I tried to pronounce simple phrases, we laughed and any small tensions that were left had lifted. I finally felt accepted by them and they cease to see me as a threat in anyway .My favourite phrase I think is “mofe jo” I want to dance. I then went and got my netbook and we viewed the photos I had taken over the past two weeks.

Mr Adegoke (the husband of Fumni who had the baby) came to measure me up, as he is making me a top to wear to a wedding at the weekend (he is a tailor and Femi had some traditional material). I had decided that with some of the money which had so generously been donated by friends in the UK and by ChiChi Dike from the USA, to settle the balance from the caesarean section. This was no huge amount by USA/UK standards but to this family it is a great weight lifted off their shoulders and would probably otherwise had taken them ages to have settled the bill. He was completely surprised and over the moon. So thank you all those that gave which allowed me to bless this family. I also gave him the teddies and baby toys for the baby and her big sister, which I’m sure they will be equally as thrilled with.

I returned to the hotel when my lift had come to get me. The weather had been overcast all day so the puddles had not dried up, everywhere was still very wet. As they dropped me off I said “oshe gan” thank you very much. He laughed, so I asked if I had said it correctly and he smiled and said yes!

I decided to go down to dinner after speaking to Tony and Beth on the phone due to the fact that the internet wasn’t working (that’s unusual!). I asked for chicken pepper soup (and chips not very Nigeria but felt yam and riced out!), when it turned up it was fish pepper soup (lost again in translation?). I usually love fish but had steered away from it after seeing where they fish (ref- previous blog and the sewage from the houses on stilts in the water and the men fishing…fat fish!). Saying this I must say it was nice, not sure what the fish was and there was more than a head which is what I commonly see everywhere. I think that the pepper is hot enough to kill almost anything that crosses its path.

Two weeks down two to go - Sunday 24th

2009-05-24T14:28:00.000-07:00

Strange bed and head spinning form the evening before (although not a drop of alcohol passed my lips), not the best sleep ever! I awoke early and started on yesterday’s blog but had to be up and dressed for the church service which commenced at 09.00. Richeal, the hotel receptionist that is a friend of Femi’s kindly called me at 07.30 to make sure I was up as I was concerned I would over sleep. I also had to pack all my things as we were heading back to Mafaluku and my hotel afterwards.

The church we were attending today was Salem International Christian Centre. Another large well attended church, with again far too little room between row for my liking and comfort (but necessary to fit everyone in). Worship commenced with the choir singing and with volume up .I again didn’t know many of the songs sang and again the ones I did know seem to be sung much slower than I used to. I still enjoy the great ‘gospel’ feeling it is uplifting, I just wish I had the word on the screen rather than our faces, but everyone knows the words so I guess they don’t feel the need for the words.

The guest preacher was a Nigerian that lives in Essex. I lost a lot of the meaning of the preach, due to the strong accent and speed and volume, but what I did keep up with I enjoyed. The theme was on obedience to God, something that I feel I am being by coming to Nigeria. This was a good reminder as to why I’m here as half way through the month, I suddenly feel home sick and would like a roast dinner and a strong black filter coffee (one of my vices that I have had to leave behind). This probably isn’t helped by the fact that I hadn’t been in contact with home for a couple of days, due to timing and internet failure.

When the service finished, Femi made his way up to see the Bishop to introduce him to me .He was a very pleasant man, but the fact that we had to go through rooms and people and request to see him surprised me. This is something (religious etiquette) that I struggle with, I am a Christian and respect the Elders and leaders of my church, and thankfully my church doesn’t have this kind of religious requirements. Our Elders hang around chatting with who ever needs to speak to them, they do not place themselves out of reach or make themselves unapproachable. This is something that is however common in a lot of churches and it is by any means just typical or critical of Nigeria. What I did like was that (maybe just as a new comer to this church) I was given a donut, this is something that we are sometimes lacking with at DCC. Saying that I will probably now be expected to purchase some on my return!!

After the service we headed back, but before leaving the Island. We stopped for some food at Tantalizers again. I suddenly felt this overwhelming tiredness and didn’t feel hungry, so just grabbed a meat pie, knowing that I could easily eat back at the hotel should I become hungry later. Then travelling back past the luxury high-rised hotels and the grandeur and the immense amount of work in progress, it’s easy to see why people that only stay on the Island can almost be fooled into thinking that this is more the norm of Lagos and be blinded to the mammoth scale of poverty and deprivation that is a stones throw away.

We hit the long bridge that joins both sides of Lagos together and leave the luxury and wealth behind us and return to Mafaluku. A warm welcome awaits me at my hotel some of the staff are now becoming quiet familiar with me. After my more expensive but substantially smaller room in Lekki, I am pleased to be back on familiar ground. I am disappointed that the internet isn’t working again as I desperately want to chat with home, but after an hour or so I receive a call from reception to be informed that the server is back. I am soon chatting on line to Tony and Beth and reassured that all is well at home and they have been so kindly looked after by another family at my church, so many of who have been such a blessing to them whilst I’ve been away. I think I might just have to get the donuts in on my return after all!

Time for some fun - Saturday 23rd

2009-05-24T11:58:00.000-07:00

All work and no play……as they say! Today had been planned to have a break from the medical centre and work. It was also the day of the pink ball, the breast awareness event set up by Genevieve magazine to raise money for the cause.

I was picked up by Femi, with bags packed for the beach and a stay over in Lekki which is on Lagos Island (the nice side of town). To start with me and the girls from the centre got into opening the boxes of donated goods that I collected and shipped over. This was while Femi saw some patients that had turned up to see a doctor out of surgery times, with no doctor in today, Femi sorted them on before we got on our way.

We headed for the airport to exchange some money, passing on the way the Lagos equivalent to DFS, ten or more individual units next to each other with leather suites for sale. I asked why they tend to sell the same things in the right next to one another, Femi said this was because if you need a certain thing you know which area to go to, people can’t or don’t want to go from area to area as we tend to do.

When we got to the airport and exchanged our money, on the black-market as this is seen as the norm here, and you get a better rate of exchange (apparently both official and black-market rates are published in the papers). Femi offered me Kilishi, pieces of beef that are peppered, and then left in the sun to dry (all those that know me well, will I’m sure be amazed that I’d eat a piece of meat that had been left on a table out in the sun to go dry, what about hygiene, sell by dates and flies!). As determined to try everything, I tried it and it was really nice, a strong meaty taste and very spicy and hot. So far my stomach has been ok and not too affected by what and where I’ve eaten.

We then headed for Lagos Island, stopping by to pick up our tickets. Then taking a look at the beach here, which has been redeveloped with a promenade and looked very nice until you looked into the sea, unfortunately it didn’t appear clean, lots of waste floating in it. We headed for our hotel and put our bags into our rooms. This area is full of big hotels and lots of money, although evident all around is the contrast of poverty. Immediately out my room window I could see and run down shed type building with people living in it.

After eating in Tantalizers another Nigerian food chain, we headed towards a beach where Femi knew the sea would be cleaner. As we drove along a 20 kilometre stretch of road we passed huge complexes being built, walled housing estates again showing there is obviously great wealth coming to this area. We passed several large banks, churches, schools and shopping malls. Scattered around these, I suspect almost invisible to their wealthy neighbours was thousands of these shed like buildings worthy of demolition, all filled with thousands of people ( to get an idea of how many people I see daily here, picture some shopping centre like Bluewater at Christmas).

We detoured off the road to Lekowe, along unmade roads to a plot of land that, Femi hopes to one day build another medical centre on. The area had lots of unfinished properties and as with all Femi’s clinic not in the nicest part of town. The excitement obvious on his face at the thought of many low cost affordable, good standard clinics available to people that deserve better than they have in a country that appears not to care for its lower class citizen. Certainly no government support, no councils houses, no social benefits, no free health care.

Then we headed for Eleko beach, as we drove down a long road we came to a barrier (a rope across the road) the men insisted they worked for the government and we had to pay money to head for the beach, on request for a receipt, they refused to give one (probably due to the fact that they didn’t work for anyone other than themselves). A few hundred meters further on and another barrier this time a receipt was offered and we had to pay again.

There in front of me was miles of beautiful fine sand and as I found out lovely warm Atlantic sea, palm trees. This could rival any beach I have been on, although like so much here neglected there was rubbish, bottles, cans etc by the load full all along as far as you could see. Wake up Nigeria you’re your sitting on a gold mine, income from tourism is huge!

The sea was strong and as you walked in the waves swept you off your feet, but it was beautifully warm. I sat and watch as two young boys entertained me with the acrobatic display, they could make any gymnastic team given the opportunity, with their breath taking back flips etc. Not normally one to buy ‘souvenirs’, I couldn’t resist the wooden Okada and the wooden doctor and midwife checking a pregnant woman, they made me laugh…..Beth wanted a present!!! I then suddenly focused in on the sand to notice loads of tiny crabs shooting about at great speed. The boys obliged and caught one to show me in greater detail. At the end of the afternoon they deserved their few Naira for keeping me amused, which of course is what they had been hoping for.

Back at the hotel, I rushed to get ready for the Pink Ball (in aid of breast cancer awareness) I only had forty minutes or so and was very sandy and salty from the beach. I realised my room was in darkness the lights were not working (only here!). It didn’t appear that anything was going to be sorted so I showered in the dark, then got dressed and as the TV worked I managed to put my makeup on by the light from that, regularly changing channels when the programme went dark. Ready at last cinders and prince charming left for the ball.

What a glamorous affair men looking handsome and women, beautiful in some stunning dresses (Femi also scrubbed up well in his tux and dickey!). The décor of the room and tables was very well done and quiet spectacular, all with a pink hue. Speeches were made and an auction for a watch went for 800,000 Naira (about £3200), donations were pledged. Music played, food was eaten, a fashion show and a special performance by an ex-governor Donald Duke and his band, which got everyone up on their feet. We finally left at gone 01.30 and after meeting many people Doctors, comedians, motivational speakers and many more, whose name I will not even attempt to remember. It was an evening that I will surely remember.

It's friday 22nd

2009-05-22T14:34:00.002-07:00

Today started with a lay in, no rush to head over to the medical centre as nothing was planned for today, I leisurely got showered and ready, decided against breakfast, really not eating as much here. I’m not sure if it’s due to the food being filling or the heat suppressing my appetite. What I do have I generally enjoy.

My lift was called and we made our way through the usual noise and traffic of the morning rush. Past the men and women selling there newspapers, yams, rice, past the people tending there ‘garden centres’. Work seems to start early here, probably before the sun gets too hot (but then they are there working all day), or just that they are hard workers.

As I was dropped off and walked up to the centre I had my usual welcomes from the men at the entrance to the street. I walked into the centre which was in darkness, NEPA was down again. As my eyes adjusted I walked up an already darkened corridor past the consulting room to the stairs at the far end of the building. These stairs always fill like a mountain to climb, I think it’s due to the uneven depth of each step, certainly not to there total height, and undoubtedly not helped by the fact that it is always very warm in this area.

I thought the Doctor was out at meetings today and that I would be pottering about at the centre. As I arrived he was still there and suggested I came with him to a meeting, at a small private hospital, at which the owner may be moving away. This was in the area of Dopemu, not too far from where we had been yesterday.

On the way we passed through Akowonjo, Femi told me this area was where he worked before heading to the UK. We was about to pass the old hospital that he worked, Crystal specialist hospital, he decided to call in a pay a flying visit, the first time he had been back since 1995/6. No sooner than we had pulled up on the drive and got out of the car, came screams of excitement from people that remembered him. We went into the very busy hospital and met many people that worked with Femi They obviously had nothing but fond memories of him. Every department we walked into gave out yells of excitement; both men and woman alike were all frilled to see him. I just follow him laughing at all there reactions as he entered the rooms.

I was escorted through to meet the owner, Femi’s mentor and trainer Dr Adeyemi a renowned gynaecologist, Femi fondly recalled him being like a father to him. A lovely man that had a warmth about him and obviously, as with all we met, a soft spot for the charming Dr Olaleye! It felt great to have witnessed and been there to see the genuine affection that they all have for Femi. I see it from the pretty young ladies that I have met whilst here, they often speak highly of him, but knowing and witnessing how charming he can be; I smile and agree with them. This was genuine admiration from colleagues, people he worked with for many years before heading for the UK, this rubber stamped for me the kind of man Dr Femi Olaleye is.

After our short visit and with promises of Femi returning to see them, we headed off to the meeting. The hospital we now entered was large on first impressions, but in contrast to Crystal specialist hospital which was brimming over with people, this was quiet. The owners a man and wife, Doctors politely showed us around and Femi discussed with them he’s business. The rooms which all had potential were tatty and looked hardly used. Something wasn’t working here, a shame when you see what they have in comparison to the clinic in Mafaluku.

On our way back, we looked for roasted plantain and nuts which someone had recommended I tried. Unfortunately no one was cooking these so we settles for roasted corn, something you see a lot of people cooking and selling here in big BBQ type drums. These I was informed by Femi you eat with coconut, a combination that does blend well together I must agree.

Back to my hotel, NEPA was, as is the case numerous times a day, down as I blindly made my way to my room in the darkness of the corridor, until I opened my room and found light from the window. I grab my stuff and headed out to the bar area after spraying myself with the now compulsory insect repellent. I am hardly able to breathe for a few minutes, due to the fumes and smell, and then cringe at the string as I put some on my face. I sat myself in the usual place, able to plug in if needed and if NEPA complies. Whilst catching up with this blog, emails, policies etc and watching the staff going about their business, whilst saying welcome to me, every time they passed by.

On return to my room the internet server was down, unable to contact home, I made my way down to dinner and order a now favourite of mine, rice and sauce with chicken and plantain. This is something that isn’t on the menu but I have learned is available on asking. The sauce is red and hot and delicious, fried plantains if you haven’t tried them are similar in taste to roasted sweet potatoes but look like bananas. I feel the need for a Nigerian take away to open near me when I get home, plenty of the food I’ve tried can easily rival many Indian and Chinese dishes and I’m sure their will be some foods I’ll miss on return to the UK.

Last day of campaign....Thursday 21st

2009-05-21T15:01:00.003-07:00

Today was the final day of our breast awareness campaign in the last of the three destinations, Alagbado. So we were to meet at Mafoluku clinic at 09.00. Femi was eating breakfast when I arrived, rice, sauce, meat, yam and egg, all with that lovely Naija kick, I was offered some and accepted. Nigerians seem to have a good hearty breakfast.

We set off with a car full again, this time in the direction of Ikeja to the area of Alagbado. This is an area where a purpose built centre is being constructed, with living accommodation and offices upstairs and wards, treatment rooms, theatre, delivery room downstairs. It will be great when it’s completed and owning a building means that the landlords can not just suddenly increase rents or decide your tenancy has expired, which can be an issue with rented premises. I did ask which room was mine, but not sure I got an answer. As I was shown around by Femi there were people in many of the rooms, I asked if they were the work men’s families but was informed they were squatters and just moved in (hopefully they will move out as swiftly)

On arrival we meet up with the others that had made their way there. We were a much bigger group then on previous days. I think I counted around 17 of us in all. Mr Dee, who has been ill and not well enough to be at work, had made the effort to come, but was obviously still not well, but kindly gave us moral support. It was nice to see him, I hope he is better and around next week.

We had the mandatory photo shot and Femi (Mr Motivator) gave us the team talk. I was distracted by my surroundings (although I had heard it before, so could be forgiven I’m sure), there was a huge palm tree behind us and there were loads of birds going mad on the fruit flapping and tweeting like there was no tomorrow! They were tiny and didn’t show on the photo, but what they lacked in size they made up for in noise. Also to my amusement (again I guess I was alone in this as no one else batted an eyelid) were the amount of lizards scooting around, all different sizes and colours. I must have seen 20-30 as we were walking around (and no it wasn’t the same one following me!). I really wanted to show my excitement and joy of seeing them, but restrained from doing so….hence I’m letting it out now.

The area again is very different from the other two we have visited, but still very deprived, probably more so. On the road where we gave out leaflet the ‘shops’ were all shed type constructions. As appears to be the case everywhere there was again lots of shops all selling small amounts of things, and cooking food. We walked around and spoke to the women handing out leaflets and informing them that the medical centre would be opening in a few weeks.

It never ceases to amaze me how much or how many people can get on an Okada. I didn’t manage to get my camera out in time but one went past (these are not big bikes). On the bike were two children on the front behind the handlebars (about 3-5 years old) three adults and the woman on the back had a baby strapped to her back (as they do here, no pushchairs to be seen). There is a law to wear helmets here, but not everyone does and these weren’t. Something that you just wouldn’t even consider doing in the UK, you have the children taken into care! But quiet the norm here, kids jump on these Okadas to go to school, old and young alike ride on them to get around. I must say I tempted to have a go but I don’t think Femi would be too pleased, and I probably would be terrified. Tony would also moan as I haven’t had my leathers on for years and never get on the back of his bike!

Today was again very hot, by the time we had walked about Alagbado , I had sunburned neck and blisters on my feet ( all together…aarrhhh!). As we were heading back to the ‘construction site’ we took a different route and spoke to some more women. Many of these had little babies or children and we ‘blessed’ several of them, by giving them a few Naira (probably just £1 or £2) but it may have been as much as they’d have made in a day.

We then passed a woman cooking akara balls, these are similar to Indian pakora , Femi decided to put an order in so we could all enjoy a snack, I went with some of the girls to pick them up, and then went to another ‘shop’ to get a crate of drinks for everyone. At this point three more women came over and wanted me to take photo’s of me with them and there children, all quite excited by seeing an Oylibo. (its like being famous lol!).

After eating together and saying our goodbyes, we got back in the car and headed home as we got to the main road the banks with there flashy facades again became evident amongst there run down shabby neighbours. We drove past big yellow buses, that Femi explained had hard metal seats and are like public transport here, he said what they were called but the name escapes me now (I’m sure someone can enlighten us).

On return to Mafaluku I was escorted to a bank by one of Femi’s staff (still not allowed out on my own), I needed to pick up some money (kindly donated by ChiChi Dike from America towards my trip). This was the forth time of trying to get it, either they hadn’t enough dollars, or system was down etc etc. Finally a man who recognised me from church served me (I said how did he notice me….he laughed (I was the only white person there!)) and I was able to get the cash.

Soon after I was picked up by my driver (Sonny, I think) and Mr Solomon and taken back to the hotel. I sat in the outside bar, with plenty of insect spray, after getting bitten yesterday, with my netbook and a cold Smirnoff ice, almost like being on holiday!

Watts happening on Wednesday 20th

2009-05-20T14:30:00.000-07:00

Hooray a good night sleep, the lovely guys at the hotel fixed the noisy air-con! Now it’s just normally noisy, lol. Eventually after having a man in my room for an hour…. The internet was back (this I feel is the best use I can make of a man in my room?!). I was able to post yesterday’s blog and even caught Michelle online before retiring to bed.

This morning we are off to Ketu to the 2nd clinic that WFA have involvement in. As I arrived at the clinic later than intended due to my lift and then traffic, I was pleased to find out Femi was also late (at least I wasn’t the only one!).

The journey to Ketu is about a 30 minute ride towards Lagos Island, so we all got into the car and headed off with a sense of excitement amongst the girls. As we arrived in Ketu the traffic was bad, so we went around the side roads to the centre, again another area of obvious poverty, with a different feel to Mafoluku.

It is said that 45- 60% of Nigerians live below the poverty line, from what I can see with my own eyes; I would say it appears far greater than that. Government figures of most things here in Naija don’t have a reputation of being very exact. Even the number of people living in Nigeria is said to be very under estimated.

When we arrived at the medical centre, we received a warm welcome. I met Dr Yussuf and the rest of the staff. The centre was dim and hot as NEPA (the electricity company that in an oil rich country, can not supply all needs at once, so each area takes it in turn!) was off and the air con and fans were not working.

We soon made our way out to the heat of the day, after the now mandatory photo shot and laughter as we all shout CHEESE in unison, we got into groups and hit Ketu to spread the word about breast awareness. People yet again were very receptive to us and many came over to hear and take leaflets.

A lady working at a bank that we saw going in, came running down the road to find us to take more leaflets for her colleagues. Women with small businesses took posters and leaflets to give out. Many see me an oyibo (white) and look and say hello, just for the novelty it feels, but all in good spirit. One group of women said to Femi they wanted to hear me speak, which I happily obliged and then Femi went over it again in Yoruba to make sure they had really got the message.

The ‘market’ stalls were full of many things huge piles of yams, as I was taking photos one man called and posed about to through the yam to the buyer. There were many vegetable stalls as well as material, food, phone cards, water etc, the list is endless and the amount again selling the same things, leave me wondering how they all survive. A man carrying his wears on his head gave me the most wonderful smile and stood in pose wanting me to take his picture too.

In spite of the extreme and poor conditions, almost everyone holds a smile and is full of greetings and many thank God in everything. If Nigerians are poor in monetary terms they are rich in Christ. I hear it, look and see it everywhere on buses, Lorries, cars, shops, even on a plastic garden chair, messages of Gods love. Out of having nothing they learn to depend on God, they go to church on a Sunday and give praise and thanks for the little they have got. We (UK) on the other hand have plenty and many of us don’t feel as if we need God, we don’t need His help and don’t need to thank Him for things that we feel are rightly ours. As I go to church on Sundays my daughter thinks that everyone else travelling alone is also going to church, sadly the majority of them are probably not.

As we headed back to the centre all our leaflets gone and the sweat dripping from us in the midday heat. It’s hard not to notice that amongst all the decaying run down buildings, the clean manicured frontages of the banks, guards on every entrance. This just goes to show that there certainly is money here in Naija, but whilst the rich get richer, the poor carry on scraping by.

On arrival to the centre the others were already there waiting for our return. Stories were shared of how well it had gone, as once again we posed for photos. A group of young school girls stood and watched us giggling, as we finished, I asked if they wanted to me take their picture, with screams of excitement they stood and smiled and then ran off jumping and laughing down the road. It’s amazing how you can find such satisfaction and beauty in the simplest of things.

We headed home through the traffic and chaos that is such a buzz. My lift to the hotel was waiting on my return to Mafoluku. The hotel manager Mr Solomon was there to greet me, he has been ill but it was good to see that he is on the mend. On the way back we stopped so I could purchase some fruit to my delight, a bunch of bananas that looked a little over ripe but I must say are tastier than any at home! Pineapple, mango, water melon and apples were also picked up.

At the hotel my room was in darkness and hot as NEPA was down and the generator wasn’t running. Rather than sit it hot darkness, I went outside and sat in the bar and worked, when the generator cranked up, I also had wireless internet. I think I might make a habit of this it’s nicer than sitting in my room all the time!

Out and about, it's Tuesday 19th

2009-05-19T14:31:00.000-07:00

Yet another bad night’s sleep this time due to the air-con unit insisting on clonking rather loudly. I can shut off from the usual noise it makes but this loud sound even continued when I turned it off. Well the only good thing about this was that at 02.30 in the morning photos can be loaded onto facebook in a flash even in Naija! Always look on the bright side, lol.

Today was the first day of the Optimal Medical Centre breast cancer awareness campaign. Several staff members and others enrolled to help met at the centre at 09.00, and had a group discussion about what was expected from the team. We also talked about how we were to go about introducing ourselves and how much information we needed to give etc. The leaflets were distributed amongst us, along with posters, bookmarks and credit card sized information.

The locally produce magazine Genevieve is running a’ pink ball’ this weekend in aid of breast awareness and has been also promoting awareness of self examination, and the importance of checking your own breasts, noticing any changes and then acting on this by consulting medical advise. This is something that all women regardless of age, culture, or social standing should be informed about. Our leaflet handout campaign has been organised in conjunction with this, and aimed at the poorer end of society in the areas at which the centres are based.

Teams of threes went out and just walked up to the woman of Mafulku, introducing ourselves from OMC and told them briefly the importance of self examination and gave the leaflets. All the woman were keen to listen and ask questions, those that were in shops were asked to put up posters, which all were happy to do. The staff of OMC seemed to really enjoy the event too, they really got into it and did very well. It gave great opportunity to converse and feel part of the local community. Even men were asking for leaflets to give to there wives and young girls were encouraged to start the habit early and to also inform other family members.

We returned to the medical centre to collect further leaflets, as we gave out more than expected, just as we entered inside the heavens opened. There was a torrential down pour which was soon joined by thunder and lightening. My first taste of the rainy season I had expected since I arrived. This literally put a dampener on the rest of the morning’s session, so it was decided that as we had given out more than we imagined, we would call it a day. Just as well as this rain remained on and off for the rest of the day.

We all had a well-earned bottle of Sprite, Coke or Fanta and as some others had just turned up. We shared how it had gone and went over plans for meeting tomorrow, everyone then dispersed ready to meet up again tomorrow for the next location.

Femi and I then headed for Lagos Island to do a bit of networking, he wanted to give a letter to the magazine editor Betty Irabor. Mrs Irabor is a very elegant lady and very well presented and carries a certain air about her, the hope is future involvement with this magazine could help awareness for ‘Wish for Africa’. We then made our way back towards Mafoluku. On the way stopping to go into the security protected area of Lagos behind the wall and barbed wire was this immaculately manicured little (or not so little) oasis. There were businesses, one of which we popped into to do a bit more networking and there was residential premises. The kerbs were all neatly painted black and white, there were no crumbling roads or buildings. To my surprise there was even a road sign, with a speed limit of 25mph, something I hadn’t noticed anywhere else. This just goes to show that order can be achieved and with effort and resources it is possible even in Naija.

As we drove out of the secured area normality quickly resumed as we headed back towards the bridge, traffic chaos as usual, petrol stations empty with fuel in abundance being sold on the black-market everyone making there profit on the way. This is a situation that seems impossible to resolve, when so many people, on many different levels, make their living out of the corruption that has become the norm here. If order was put into place what would all these people (and there are many, many people) do? If pot holes were filled, and traffic flowed, then the hundreds of men and women selling goods walking in the slow traffic would not make there living.

As a foreigner from a country where of course there are problems, but people generally have a say and things seem to work relatively well for most of us, most of the time. Poverty at the extreme that I have seen here, I have never seen, not even when taking food and clothes to the homeless in London. As I stress we, (the UK) as with any country haven’t got it completely right, with some things far from it many of you would say. Not every one can be equal and not everyone can always be pleased with the system they live in. The difference here is vast between rich and poor and it seems that the amount of people living in poor conditions here is immense.

As I lay awake at night thinking what am I doing here? I can not make one ounce of difference, what is the point to this trip? I will go home in a few weeks time get back to my family, friends and job. Back to consent electricity and water on tap, back to a health service open to all and this will all fade into a memory. I have no family here, I am not Nigerian but for some reason God called me to here and as I question at this point of my trip why? I am sure I will in time find out and the minority of Nigerians that have been negative towards my trip or the purpose of it, I pray for you, that He opens your eyes to see the positive in people and not to be so blinded with inward thinking.

Just as I was about to post this blog I checked out my facebook, which wasn’t easy as internet has not been forthcoming today. I was reminded that some people see what I am doing as such a positive thing, regardless of its outcomes or results, regardless that I will not single handily resolve the problems of the world, let-a- lone Nigeria. There was a ‘note’ from a Nigerian in America ChiChi Dike (who also very kindly sent me a donation, thank you) and I read this message that she had posted about me inspiring her (ME!?). I really don’t feel that I am doing anything worthy of such praise, but if God is using this trip and me to make a handful of people think about something or someone other than themselves, then I guess that’s as good a reason to be here as any!

A start of week two! Monday 18th

2009-05-18T14:45:00.000-07:00

After a restless night due to the fact that my room phone rang awakening me at 01.30, 01.45 and then again around 07.30, this then took me ages to back to sleep as all sort of silly things were running through my head. Partly not helped by the fact I read an article in a newspaper in the hotel foyer about a hotel that had been under siege and everyone robbed and lucky to have got away alive. Something that hadn’t re-entered my mind until 01.30 in the morning! When I enquired in the morning to why this had happened they put it down to it being busy and someone must have been calling room to room. Oh well at least there are less people mid-week.

I called for my driver to take me to the clinic. I love this journey it’s so interesting watching life and all its visual chaos. The journey as the crow flies is about a mile but we have to go around many roads to get to the main road it seems longer. The side roads here on the Ajao Estate are dry and dusty and to say there are pot holes is an under statement. There are loads of small shops running up the edges and when there is a gap there are individuals with stalls. All selling a multitude of things, loads of water, bread, food, as well as clothes, shoes. People mending tyres, tailors with machines on there heads, people cooking all sorts from corn on the cob to meat. Hundreds of okadas darting around the cars and lorries as they zigzag around the holes and people, some of which are carrying huge loads balanced to perfection on there heads. This is all to the sound of horns blowing, to warn, to protest or to thank.

As we get to the main road (the one where I sometimes play dodge the traffic or chicken?!?!) the medical centre is just across from this point. To get there it’s a trip down the road where we do a u-turn (this seems like something that would be illegal in the UK but is perfectly OK here) on to another road that takes us over the road on a fly-over. This takes us along side another main road where we have to go another half a mile to be able to do another u-turn onto the main road. Here again is a very busy part, lots of yellow mini buses that are crammed with people. The side door are always open with a man hanging out with fingers up indicating, I assume, how many more people can be squashed into it. As with okadas’ there are hundreds of these yellow taxis and buses and hundreds of people using them to get about there daily business. We then head back the way we came but under the flyover to join the dual carriage way on the opposite side. Passing people selling yams and some well tendered road side verges that people have taken over and use to display there gardening skills, like mini garden centres. It really would be quicker to walk but I love this journey and am always amazed by different things daily.

As I get out of the mini bus and walk the about 50 metres to the medical centre, I always get hellos and welcomes from the mainly men sitting around going about there daily business. This side of the road is even poorer than the side I stay on, the side roads up to the centre are even more uneven and the building even less well kept.

On arrival to the centre I was greeted with the usual welcomes, which are always polite and courteous. Fumni was ready and waiting to go home, I removed the babies cord clamp and gave a demonstration to the nurse on how to do this. Explaining how using cord clamps and not cotton thread, when they have them, reduces the risk of infection to the baby. Also reminding them that the cord should be exposed from the nappy and cleaning and creaming etc is not needed. Simple things that in this clinic aren’t common practise. I sat with Fumni and explained the need to take it easy, she said her mother in law would be staying to help out. Her husband turned up and everyone was happy and excited that everything had gone well and at last she was going home.

The rest of the day was spent preparing for the forthcoming event that commences tomorrow. We are distributing breast cancer awareness leaflets to three areas to help promote self examination, over the next three days. Unlike our government in the UK, here there appears to be a lack of screening or health promotion programs. So awareness of health issues is something that needs addressing and this is one level that hopefully we can make a difference at. I am also looking forward to getting out among the markets and people and getting a taste of the atmosphere, rather than seeing it from the comfort of a car.

It's Sunday 17th

2009-05-17T13:51:00.000-07:00

It’s Sunday and in my world that can only mean one thing….time to head on down to church and Praise the Lord. This week I was a little bit more apprehensive than usual as I was heading to an unknown church on my own in a foreign country. I was also looking forward to the extravagant style of worship ‘black churches’ have a reputation of.

My driver took me and on the way I was amazed that their were so many people very well dressed with bibles in hand and noticeably heading to church, a sight it warm my heart to see back in the UK. He dropped me at the front of the church and nervously I got out. This was The Redeemed Christian Church of God, Jesus House (aka House of Praise). As I walked through the door a service had just finished and some were leaving, I found a seat and sat down.

It was a large modern building with elaborate drapes and lights and huge TV screens to see all that was going on as it was being filmed (this could be purchased at the book shop). The large band and choir played the first worship song which I recognised and joined in with, only to find out it was at a different speed than I was familiar with. I did also know a couple more but most of them were sung in Yoruba (I assume) and I did my best to hum along, with lots of dancing and clapping I loved it!

All people visiting the church for the first time were asked to stand and then go to the front row. Here we were welcomed, prayed for and sat for the rest of the service. The good thing about that was there was a fan placed for all the leaders of the church which I too benefited from. A preacher from Jamaica was visiting and gave the preach on Elijah (1 Kings 17) I couldn’t keep up with most of it due to the accent, but enjoyed the service and its vibrant praise all the same. The church was crammed and full, hardly any room between seats and rows probably 300 or more people there. A very colourful and energetic way to worship…. Watch out DCC I may bring some back!

My afternoon was blessed by Gloria, who called in after work (she started at 6). We visited the clinic and saw Fumni and the baby, both looked well and Fumni was up and about hoping to go home as soon as Femi would discharge her. I was delighted to see her looking so well and she informed me that she was now feeding which I was very pleased to hear.

Gloria then took me to Ikeja another part of Lagos this had a very different feel to it. We passed the airport for internal flights which was an impressive looking building (more so than the one I arrive at). The roads were all tarmac and there were roundabouts and traffic lights and certainly more order. Also noticeable was the greener verges and trees, and less crumbling and general decay. There I was treated to Chicken Republic a sort of KFC with a bit more kick to it, I also tried moin moin which I really enjoyed (a hot blended bean paste sort of dish). I felt desperate for some fruit so Gloria also very kindly purchased some pots of fruit salad that I must say went down a treat. Thanks Gloria!

The rest of the evening was plagued with the internet being on a go slow. Hardly any contact was achieved with my family today, as skype just kept dropping the calls. Any attempt to do anything on facebook or my blog was frustrating, but I am very grateful that this wasn’t the case yesterday when I really did benefit from it working well.

Watts been happening today 16th May

2009-05-16T13:56:00.000-07:00

Saturday, and again I knew was going to be a hard day, nothing planned! Something that I know I struggle with at the best of times. I also realised that coming on this trip I would have to deal with this and probably quiet a bit of the time. This is the one thing that probably filled me with more dread and fear than any thing else, and something that a lot of prayer has gone into.

I spoke briefly to my family on skype and went down for breakfast, more eggs (I came prepared with diacalm etc and now I think I’m egg bound as they say!! Sorry if that’s too graphic Lol) but the diet here does seem starchy and I will have to buy some fruit to counter balance the effects. That’s more a problem with eating hotel food then Nigerian food I think.

On return to my room I wondered how on earth I was going to fill the day. I turned on the computer and Tony called, the reception wasn’t great and was again very patchy. He decided to invest in a better web-cam, which he sent Michelle out to buy. Michelle my best mate appears to have all but moved in!!! lol. It’s a good job I trust them both so much and I know that Beth loves her and probably is finding it easier with having her around.

Well I am now starting to feel cabin fever! It’s like being in the big brother house on your own?!?

Eventually the new web-cam is sorted and by midday skyping is back with full force. Just when conversation is waning, we decided to play games at Michelle’s suggestion. So Beth and Michelle verses me at hangman, dominoes and battleships, which wasted away a few hours and as the champion of games (to Beth’s disgust) I reigned victorious! (Sorry darling). I also had the pleasure of listening to bickering and whining, it almost feels as if nothings changed. It was nice also to see and chat with both Adam and Emma and even the dog joined in!

I had a call from Gloria, (Femi’s friend) who had hoped to pop in to see me today but sadly for me she had got delayed with family, but said she catch up tomorrow. I also by the wonders of facebook was able to chat with a few other people through out the day. All these things become such blessings when you feel isolated and alone and a million miles from home. Thanks to all that contacted and chatted even the quick messages made a huge difference.

At dinner I met Leonard another American who kindly informed me that Manchester United had won the cup or league or what ever it is that an avid supporter like myself should have been aware of. Yawn yawn yawn! Dinner consisted of Jollof rice which is a tasty sort of savoury rice with a kick and after keep being served bones rather than meat, logic told me to go for the shredded chicken, hey presto a ton of hot and tasty chicken. Great!

I thought I’d ask for a pot of tea to take up to my room. Again this seems to be something that gets lost in translation, I thought I’d solved this problem by asking for lipton rather than tea as this appears to be the tea of choice. Eventually after three people getting into the conversation my tea arrived, hot and tasty worth the wait!

Friday 15th May

2009-05-15T13:29:00.000-07:00

I have not been looking forward to today, Femi and Mr Dee are both out of town for a few days and this means I am here very much alone. Although I don’t find the environment in itself frightening, I don’t feel that I would be able to travel around on my own and I wouldn’t be sure where to go, it’s not exactly a tourist area, and I do stand out like a sore thumb! The only other white person I have seen in this area was an American man that had missed his flight and was staying in this hotel for the night, we passed pleasantries at breakfast.

Once again I was woken early at 07.30 by reception asking if I wanted a driver, the answer was no. As I was in no hurry to rise, due to the fact I may not even leave the room all day, the phone went again. This time the news was more pleasing, they requested I tried the internet. With excitement I jumped up and turned on my netbook, no internet via wireless but there was a cable which I plugged in and YES!!!! It was there, I had internet at last tomorrow had arrived! It was temporally short lived as I lost in within 5 minutes, so went to have breakfast in the hope that it would be sorted on my return.

I consider myself very up for trying any food; I am open and excited about trying new things. That aside, I always find breakfast when ever away from home, the one meal that I miss, I like my boringly predictable cereal choice. Here in Nigeria they don’t appear to do milk, so even if I ordered cornflakes, which is on the menu, I’m not sure that the powered milk will hit the spot for me. They do make a lovely omelette and I have discovered that if you have jam on toast it flows with the fact that their bread is quite sweet which I wasn’t struck on before. As I sat at breakfast this morning a Nigerian was also eating across the room, it appears they go for rice and meat stew (or at least that is what it looked like), something that most of us in the UK would see as a lunch or dinner meal.

I received a call from Femi, as he was leaving to make sure I was ok and to tell me that the woman had acquired some gastric problems, so remained on a drip and was nil by mouth. I enquired about the baby and was informed all was OK although no milk had been had and it was still on sugar water. He again said that to make them do anything different would be difficult and even though I asked if I could do a BM (to check the blood sugar levels) he said no, due to this reason. I decided I wouldn’t pop over and see them today, because it would probably cause me more anguish if I still felt something wasn’t right.

So how can I make the rest of my day exciting enough to write a blog about? Well I can’t! I sat in with the computer, which did actually have the internet (praise the Lord!). I managed to put photos onto my blog as you may see if you’re reading this direct from the page. And at last I could see and speak to my family, Beth was so excited she wanted to go out to play instead! KIDS!! Eventually we did do the ‘patchy, can’t quite hear what you’re saying’ skype thing. Which even Beth seemed to enjoy for 5 minutes.

I went down to have dinner and on the recommendation of Samson, a Nigerian facebook friend, I tried Ogbono soup, which as it happened was the slimy stuff I’d eaten at Nigerian Village with Mr Dee. Well at least I now know what it was. It came with mixed meat…. Or should it be mixed bone? I think I know a friend at home that would have enjoyed that! I retired to my room to catch up with this blog and to speak to friends in the UK. The wonders of the internet are truly amazing!!!

Watts' log Lagos date Thursday 14h May

2009-05-15T05:21:00.000-07:00

Another very hot day in Lagos! The day started early as I had a call from reception to say my lift was ready….I wasn’t and it seemed that the fact that yesterdays early start was a one off got lost in translation! I hear you cry, they speak English. Well that’s true to a point, but many jump from English to Yoruba or more Yoruba to English. I am amazed how people don’t understand me when I feel as if I’m clearly saying something. But then those that know me would probably agree that I can talk a load of rubbish that is incomprehensible most of the time! (Thought I’d say it before you commented!)

When I did get up and go ‘over the road’ to the medical centre, Funmi the women who had the section yesterday had received her blood results back and her Hb was low (it’s all about red blood cell, and whether you need iron or even blood). Hers were too low and she needed a blood transfusion, which was sent off for and arrived within an hour or so. Once this had gone through Funmi appeared much better and was even sitting up.

We were still unsure if the blood loss was more due to drugs not being what they allege to be or at the dose it claims to be. This seems amazing that reputable sources can still sell you drugs that aren’t what it says they are. Someone somewhere is making money and potentially playing with people’s lives. How do you resolve this? I don’t know the answer but the more I see the more I realise, change isn’t about to happen over night. But on a positive note many people do see and acknowledge the need for change and are doing something about it. Nigerians that left are now coming back with enthusiasm and gained knowledge and I truly believe that this can and will be a great nation.

One of my concerns was that the baby still hadn’t fed properly, I tried for about 30mins or more to help latch the baby on to the breast. Funmi was getting impatient and wanted to just give it sugar water again. I tried to express my concerns to the nurses but they didn’t seem troubled. The baby was very lethargic, which is not a good sign, I stressed to them that I wanted them to feed her with whatever they had, which apparently is not formula!

I spoke to Femi and he pointed out that many of these cultural things are hard to change, that they have always done these things and probably not had a problem before, so can’t see why they shouldn’t do it again. As a midwife coming from a country where everything needs to be evidence based. Therefore our maternal and neonatal death rate is relatively low, largely due to the quality of care and knowledge behind that care. This is the hardest part of being here I feel, that when I believe something needs to be done and could give good reason for my concerns, it appears that no one gets it. Femi did then stress to the nurses about the need to feed the baby and that if the baby is hypoglycaemic, it will be tired and that is not a good sign. As I left they were trying to feed it sugar water, hopefully as Funmi was sitting up and feeling better she will feel more up to feeding the baby herself.

After the another promise of internet tomorrow, yet another day has come and gone with out the use of it at my hotel, so still unable to skype home (sorry again Beth). This trip is teaching me patience in many ways from not having my promised internet to getting on it and then finding it runs at snail pace (I ate him yesterday and it still hasn’t speeded up!) or it just cuts off. But I was able to get onto Femi’s laptop and thankfully at last managed to post some photos albeit just on facebook and not on my blog (although I did try and I thought it said done?!?), they will arrive soon! Reducing the size arrears to help…that’s my tip of the day to all those who are as good with a computer as me!!

As I dodged across the road, (Femi is now trusting my judgement and appears not to need to hold my hand anymore) to catch my lift back to the hotel, you may be pleased to hear (those in the UK where it is not in the mid-upper 30’s) the sky was filling with black clouds. I haven’t heard any rain or storms yet, albeit very noisy in my room due to the air con unit. May be when the electricity cuts out (as it invariably does) and the air con goes off with it and silence prevails I might hear it, or it may have passed over and headed for the UK! : )

Wednesday 13th

2009-05-14T09:10:00.000-07:00

Today we had an early start. We had arranged to be at the medical centre for 07.00, as today we are performing the caesarean section. On arrival the doctors and most of the staff were there but a misunderstanding with the head nurse meant she wasn’t. This led to a delay in commencing the operation. Their were further delays as staff were unfamiliar with what needed to be done and this is something that will need addressing, by writing up guidelines for them to follow. Simple things like aseptic procedures, passing stuff to someone who is sterile, these had to be demonstrated.

Once everything was in place and Femi had pretty much told them step by step what he required, we were underway. Funmi was on the couch and her analgesia for the section was administered, lignocain, this to those who aren’t aware is a local anaesthetic that you may have for minor things such as stitches, episiotomies etc. To my surprise she did very well, she was obviously in varying amounts of pain but not to the extreme I had envisaged.

A beautiful little girl was delivered just after 09.00 and I took the baby, no not to the resuscitaire (because there is not one), but to what is commonly known the general ward (the only ward, a room with 6 beds in). As I rubbed the baby dry the assistant insisted on sticking a suction tube down baby’s throat, at this point baby went floppy and pale. I insisted she stopped and rubbed the baby vigorously until it began to gasp and cry. A moment of internal panic as there was no resus equipment, not even a bag and mask. But by five minutes she had good respirations and was screaming, always a good sign! I returned to theatre leaving the assistant to clean baby with oil (not something we practice in the UK).

In theatre the temperature was immense, both Femi and the other Dr, which had been employed for the section, were sweating even more than the rest of us, as they had theatre gowns on that are in affect water proof, so have a similar affect to being in cling film. The uterus on inspection was thin and badly scared, so it was a good call to not allow labour to commence. Funmi was sutured up and with a minimal blood loss, was cleaned up and remained in theatre for a while for observations. Later she was taken to the general ward with her baby, no skin to skin was encouraged and no immediate feeding. On enquiry later I discovered that they feed glucose water to the baby for the first day, not even attempting to put it to the breast.

After the excitement of the morning I was treated to lunch by the lovely Mr Dee, a member of the wish for Africa team. He knows how to treat a girl (unlike Femi and the Gala!!). We walked to the local fast food outlet, which in itself was great as I have not been out and about much and enjoy every opportunity I can grab to step into local life. The outlet (which excuse me if I get this wrong) includes Mr Biggs, Tasty Chicken and Nigerian Village it has several types of food, donuts, ice-cream, tasty chicken, and a more traditional flavour. Mr Dee guided me through the choices to which I remained slightly confused, so in time honoured tradition I went with anything. I don’t really know what I had, but there was pounded yam (someone had asked me to bring some home, so I took that as a recommendation) a green vegetable thing, a very slimy other dish and plonked on the top a giant snail in sauce! (De-shelled, I don’t think the slime was from the snail). It was tasty and very filling, Mr Dee asked if I was going to use my finger as is traditional, of course I was…. Then he proceeded to use a knife and fork himself, whilst I got messier and messier!

I must say, as many people back home were concerned of my safety here in Nigeria, that everyone is so polite and friendly. Wherever I go people smile say hello, open doors, I can say I don’t feel at all concerned for my safety (except when crossing the road, then it’s every man for himself!!). Nigerians are a handsome race, both in looks and from my experience to date in nature.

On our return to the medical centre after lunch, I had a beautiful welcome from Funmi’s husband and little girl who was excited to see her baby sister, a very pretty little girl, with a typical Nigerian huge smile. I went up stairs and looked in on Funmi to find she looked distressed, I found Femi and shared my concerns, including the fact that the venflon had tissued and wasn’t flowing. She then began to bleed and misoprostal, a drug to help contract the uterus was given and additional fluids were put up. All appeared to settle down but from this I also realised that there is no postnatal observation guidance to follow. No one had even notice the venflon was compromised and the fluid to help the womb contract was not getting through.

Today I came away with a greater understanding to why we in the UK have so many guidelines and policies. These can sometimes appear overwhelming because of the amount of them. Today I saw what happens when there isn’t any, chaos; no one is sure what to do, how often to do it, why there is a need and what the consequences can be. So much of how we practice is down to evidenced based practice, things are researched, tested, and applied. Here much of what is done is just handed down, no one questions why or if there is a better way, is it safe, and is it necessary. This is where charities like wish for Africa need people with experience, expertise, knowledge to come and share their skills. This is how people can help, this and by helping to provide the bare essentials. Femi was over the moon because I had some tourniquets, they had none and they had been using drip tubes.

I left for the evening, to return to the luxury of a flushing toilet and running water at my hotel. Funmi appeared to be stable and baby albeit not fed (something I tried to encourage to a staff member) was well. Tomorrow will tell if this continued through the night. I hope and pray for no surprises.

May 12th

2009-05-12T08:29:00.000-07:00

Today was spent in the clinic, discussing the forthcoming section, and what it involves. This is part of the help I can give whilst here, by doing risk assessments, pointing out the obvious (some might say) risks involved with doing operations under such conditions. The reason for this being, that people (even you) may take notice and offer help in certain areas, gradually improving each problem or risk.
The fact of the matter is, we have a woman who has had 2 previous sections in emergencies, one baby died. She has had 2 incisions one a classical (up/down), and a lower segment incision (more commonly used now in most countries such as the UK). She is only just 5ft and not previously being able to deliver before means she is unlikely to be able to this time. So putting it bluntly if she went into labour she would be highly likely to add to the maternal death rate here. Which I might add is the second highest in the world, although figures are not well collated and the estimates are probably much lower than the reality. At least with this section albeit not as safe as if she was to have the same operation in the UK, both her and her baby stand more chance of survival.
Each person is charged for their treatment but a fraction of the cost in any other health care establishment, prices are kept low, little or no profit is ever made. Meaning new equipment etc must be purchased by donations and fund raising events. Staff wages have been subsidised by Femi himself, on occasions when money is tight, he prides himself on paying them regularly, something many in these areas are not lucky enough to enjoy.
I managed to take advantage of Femi’s laptop and internet, to catch up on my blog and facebook. This in it’s self doesn’t sound much but with the fact that my hotel has not yet managed to get it’s internet provider sorted out, so I am unable to skype home as promised to my 7 year old Beth (Sorry). My diary as I write now has to be done on word and then in the excitement of getting on line, is transferred to my blog etc. When at last as today I get online, you have to contend with the slowness of speed everything takes several times longer then I am used to. This has proved to be a problem when trying to put on photos to share, you wait and wait and then it shuts off. Then you have to contend with the constant power cuts, just as you set up the power goes down, if your lucky enough to have battery back up, you may still be in darkness and struggle to see what your doing.
Another luxury that I have taken for granted until today is water. In my hotel room the bathroom is by no stretch of the imagination of high quality, missed matched tiles, water on the floor, 3 pin plug sockets above the bath, cracked sink etc etc. What I have got is water on tap, a shower and a flushing toilet. In the clinic as in many places and homes there is no running water, no flushable toilets, mains water is a luxury that Lagos appears not to have. At the clinic (which remember is Femi’s abode) water is drawn up from a neighbours well and carried in large containers, when needed it is scooped in bowls to either the toilet, or to wash etc, it is certainly not drinkable .Places like my hotel bore deep holes into the ground and pump water up, which is costly but the paying guest pays for that in there charges. Not something that can be added to the price of a consultation or procedure at the medical centre.

Today I also gave a demonstration on the use of a sonic aid, which there are 3 that were kindly donated by dopplerhire.co.uk. The new doctor that has been appointed this week had not even seen one before. The woman who is due for section tomorrow was used to show the Doctor, nurses and health care assistants/trainee nurses, how to use it and the woman heard her baby, which they usually are not able to, as pinnards (trumpet type instrument once commonly used by midwives before sonic aids) are routinely used here still.
Preparations were also made for tomorrow operation, surgical instruments laid out and listed. Again as with so much here, some were not up to the quality that Femi is used to, but he purchased what he could and what was available. A trough for sterilisation had also been purchased and every thing would be a sterile as possible. If anything breaks or is dropped there are no spares readily available. This is another reason why a planned section is safer than an emergency, as it would take far too long to sterilise and prepare.
The working day ended with the fun of trying to cross the road, to where my lift awaited me. Femi grabbed my hand, I’m not sure if it was as case of if we go we go together! Or he just didn’t trust my capability to run through a gap, with every man, car, bus or okarda (maniac bike taxis) for himself. Back to my hotel, netbook and dining alone, oh and the delicious box of ‘hotel chocolate’, kindly given to me by grateful parents back home and even more appreciated here in Nigeria!

Monday 11th May Goodmorning Lagos!

2009-05-12T07:21:00.000-07:00

The nights sleep disturbed but not too bad for the first night in an unfamiliar bed, only one power cut in the night. Up and showered and breakfast down stairs, a little lonely, no other guests appear to be around. Whilst awaiting Femi’s arrival and the adventure of the coming day I update my diary.
First port of call is the clinic, ‘just across the road’ only problem is you have to go a mile or so up the road to get over the other side, a sort of dual carriage way with pot holes. I am introduced to the staff all of whom appear shy or suspicious. The clinc which is squashed between buildings is not a ‘propose-built’ premise. The facilities are to say the least basic and minimal, this also to my surprise is Femi’s home a room upstairs with a bed, fridge, wardrobe, shower, TV. Not at all the flash large house that many back in UK assume he goes home to at the end of the day. The birthing room, theatre are not what I am used to, the theatre bed is a rickety make do thing that Femi reasurred me that no one falls off! There is a lamp resembling an office lamp rather than a theatre one and an O2 cylinder, no big bright lights, sterile and clean surroundings of the obstetric theatres at home.
After finishing the tour of the centre, we headed off for Lagos Island and Victoria, passing on the way Oshodi. I peered across the familiar sight just as I had seen it in books and on the internet. I had envisaged there to be lots of rubbish and stench, which there wasn’t, often there were people employed to sweep with brooms and dustpans on the edges of the road, even towards the poorer areas. Heading towards Lagos Island to our right was an expanse of water, here were ‘houses’ built on stilts all crammed together, not your luxury riverside apartments by any stretch of imagination! I was told the sewage goes straight into the water here, and in the same area many boats were fishing (one can only say they must be fat fish!).
As we arrived in the ‘better’ area it still struck me that everywhere you can see crumbling unkempt buildings, roads side by side with wealth. The appearance of the whole place is so far from any where back home.
As we travelled around Femi talked about his dreams and aspirations, he is a man on a mission and is doing and is aiming to do amazing things. He is passionate about his nation and the people within it. He is certainly not blinded to the problems and speaks honestly about these, but believes that God has given him the gifts he processes to make a difference. I have to say I whole heartedly go along with this thought, he is determined and where many would have given up, after the many obstacles that have gone before him, Femi keeps on going. Femi all credit to you and your hard work and praise God for people like you!
We headed towards a publishing firm that produce a magazine Genevieve aimed at women. These are heading the pink ball that is giving awareness to breast cancer and promoting self examination. I sat in reception as Femi does what he is good at (apart from being a Dr… PR). I was introduced to the editor of the magazine, who was passionate about empowering women and breast awareness is part of that. Here in Nigeria not surprisingly there are no government campaigns or screening or health education programs. Only those with money can afford to just visit the doctor and many die through ignorance or lack of money to obtain treatment. Something we take so much for granted in the UK is the fact that health education is everywhere and that we can pretty much turn up at our GP or hospital and receive treatment.
We also drove along the beach road, Lagos has such a beautiful expanse of beach, it seems such a pity that it can’t cash in on this and become a holiday destination. Only six hours from the UK, good climate, good beaches, friendly people. It’s hard to get your head around what isn’t working! The hotels in this area are very expensive and there are many of them but not for your tourist, it seems that it’s mainly rich people here on business to get even richer?
On a lighter note, Femi treated me to ‘lunch’ ( he knows how to treat a lady lol!!). As you drive or crawl along the roads there are people selling anything and everything. An array of goods from fruit, drinks, tissue, toilet rolls, car mats, door hooks, mobiles to Gala bars. Now this Gala was sold to me by Femi as a delicious sausage roll, a treat that his father would bring home to him as a child. He said many of his Nigerian friends in the UK say they too love them and ask him to bring some over… well guys I don’t know what planet you’re on but they are AWLFUL!!! As I bit in with excitement, every water molecule in my mouth was sapped up from the dry salty consistency the likes I have never experienced before. I drank a gallon of water to re-hydrate myself and to then be able to talk again! They must be an acquired taste but unlike the goat and pepper soup, it’s not one I think I will become accustomed too. Then on the radio a lovely little jingle came on advertising them, we laughed as my ability to salivate came back.

Sunday 10th May, Good bye UK, Hi Lagos!

2009-05-12T07:10:00.001-07:00

Well 10th May has arrived. Heathrow bound with farewell party in tow. Coffee and cake before sobs and so longs!
Through departures and boarding has begun so a quick dash following some running Nigerians! On the plane and scramble to find overhead room for hand luggage, finally seated and awaiting take off. Introductions made Tola, a fine older man and Patrick (one of the running Nigerians) who informed us that it was his birthday (Happy 50th). The flight was great, with just enough talk and enough silence in perfect balance.
As we flew over Africa the terrain was amazing, Gods hand had truly been at work. As I viewed from up high it looked like veins and arteries spanning the arid landscape I watched in owe of its awesome beauty. A huge lake of which I am unsure of its geography but according to the in flight journey follower it was in the region of Bou Saada, another amazing sight. Then as I was welcomed to Nigeria by Tola, I looked out of the window to see a circle of rainbow like colours amidst the cloud, surely a sign!
A perfect smooth landing in Lagos and the humidity of the airport hit, a huge air-con unit with a sign ‘do not switch on’ made us laugh….welcome to Lagos! Then as I stood waiting to show my passport I looked over and saw the smiling face of Femi and the real welcome to Lagos! Femi, his friend Gloria and Solomon the manager from my hotel greeted me took my luggage. Femi, Gloria and I made our way to the hotel, too dark now to really see exactly my surroundings but nothing like home that was for sure. I had landed and the hustle and bustle of Nigeria was immediately evident, how exciting. I laughed as I enquired what the rules of the road are, as okadas whizzed in and out of cars and pedestrians all of which appeared to share the same space.
Arriving at my hotel I was shown to my room the largest bed ever, the accommodation by British standards a little rough around the edges but secure and certainly adequate. Internet not working, so not contact with home, I made my way down to the restaurant. It had to be goat and pepper soup, something that had to be tried. This was certainly hot and the meat chewy but delicious all the same. Some un-packing then off to bed, with air-con blowing, awaiting the new day in Lagos and all it will bring.

One day to go!

2009-05-09T00:27:00.000-07:00

Well it's Saturday the 9th May, the excitement has wained somewhat and has been pushed aside by nerves!
My bags are overflowing and for those that know me...no not just with shoes!! Some last minute donations that were so very kindly given to me from people at work, but that unfortunately missed the freight deadline. I do have a mega allowance (2x23kg) so hopefully I can keep within that.
Online booking can be done today, (although prayers for an upgrade won't go amiss! lol).
Lots of last minute panic shopping I'm sure will kick in shortly.
To all the friends that have donated, money, gifts, time, wishes and prayers, I thank you very much and so too will all the people that these will help to bless.
I hope that with this blog I can keep you up to date with what ever is happening in sunny Lagos ( temp 30 degrees albeit heavy rain!!), especially those not on facebook : )
Please use it to pass on questions and comments.
I will miss much about home while away but I hope to have a great time and have plenty of stories to share along the way.
Much love
Jo